Greece

Greece (Greek: Ελλάδα, Elláda) is a country in Southern Europe, on the southernmost tip of the Balkan peninsula, with extensive coastlines and islands in the Aegean, Ionian, and Mediterranean Seas. It shares borders in the north with Albania, North Macedonia, Bulgaria, and Turkey. It has an ancient culture that has had a significant influence on the arts, language, philosophy, politics, and sports of western society, including the genres of comedy and drama, western alphabets, Platonic ideals and the Socratic method, democracies and republics, and the Olympics. Furthermore it’s a geographically appealing place to visit, with a mountainous mainland and idyllic island beaches.

Click on the city’s name for hotels and activity ideas

Cities

Major cities include:

• Athens — the capital city known for the Parthenon, the neoclassical Architecture , the museums and for food
• Chania — second largest city on Crete surrounded with beaches and the Samaria National Park with beautiful old city
• Chersonissos — party capital of Crete in the summer with lovely beaches and unique climate
• Heraklion — Crete’s largest and most touristic city and fourth biggest with the archaeological site of Knossos, and medieval history, the enormous walls and also known for food and wines
• Patras — 3rd most populated city, known for the biggest carnival in Greece and one of the biggest universities and the bridge Rio – Antirio
• Larissa — the country’s fifth largest city with beautiful city center and two ancient theaters
• Rhodes — magnificent city with impressive medieval structures, nightlife and beaches
• Thessaloniki — the prime city in the Macedonia region and very historical, famous for food and nightlife
• Volos — coastal port city with lovely sorrounding landscape mountain Pelio and the restaurants tsipouradika
• Kavala – coastal port city with scenic old town

Other destinations

• Corfu — large island with many attractions
• Delphi — site of the famous oracle of Apollo, major archaeological site
• Meteora — breathtaking scenery of rocks and old Byzantine monasteries
• Ithaca — famous home of Odysseus
• Mount Athos — semi-independent ecclesiastical republic
• Mykonos — world famous sophisticated vacation centre
• Olympia — sanctuary dedicated to Zeus, site of the ancient Olympics
• Rhodes — island with ancient monuments, as well as beaches
• Santorini — a volcanic island known for its beautiful views, towns and sunsets
• Thasos – a green island with high mountains and forests

Understand

Greece is one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, ranking in the world’s top 20 countries. According to the Greek Ministry of Tourism, the nation received about 33 million visitors in 2018, a very large number for a small country of 11 million. Visitors are drawn to the country’s beaches and reliable sunny summer weather, its nightlife, historical sites and natural beauty.

Backstreets of charming Firá, Santoríni

Over 90% of visitors come to Greece from other European countries, although in recent years there have been growing numbers of tourists from other world regions. The vast majority of visitors arrive during the tourist season, which is April through October. Peak season is July through August, and most of the tourists and tourism industry are concentrated in Crete, the Dodecanese, Cyclades, and Western Greek Islands, and to a lesser extent the Peloponnese and the Halkidiki peninsula in Macedonia.

Greece has an immense length of coastlines (16,000 km) and the country has still countless of beautiful places without large-scale tourism, which in most cases have nothing less to offer than their mainstream counterparts. You may be intrigued to visit a particular place in Greece that a friend of you has suggested, but in reality the options are more than you can imagine.

Many first-time visitors arrive in Greece with specific images in mind and are surprised to discover a country with such regional and architectural diversity. The famous whitewashed homes and charming blue-domed churches only characterize a specific region of the country (the Cyclades Islands). Architecture varies greatly from one region to the next depending on the local history. Visitors will find Neoclassical architecture in the cities of Ermoupolis and Nafplion, Ottoman-influenced buildings in Grevená and Kozáni, whitewashed Cycladic homes on the island of Paros, and pastel-coloured baroque homes and churches on Corfu. The nation’s terrain is just as varied as its architectural heritage: idyllic beaches, towering mountain ranges, wine-producing valleys, vast stretches of olive orchards in the south, and lush forests in the north. Greece’s historical sights are just as varied; the country is littered with just as many medieval churches and castles as classical ruins and temples.

History

Greece boasts a very long history, with the Greek language being present in the country for at least 5000 years.

First civilizations

The country’s first inhabitants are now referred to as the Pelasgians. Little is known about them, but it is believed that they were a primitive tribe of people. The first advanced civilizations in Greece are known as the Cycladic in the Cyclades Islands, and the Minoan in Crete and Santorini. The Minoans had a written language which remains undecipherable to modern-day archaeologists. This is one of the most interesting and profound historical mysteries. It is a link to our modern civilization.

Dark age

Greek-speaking Indo-European peoples arrived in the country from somewhere to the north, around 1700 BC, and slowly invaded the entire country from the north all the way to Crete, as well as the west coast of Asia Minor (now Turkey), absorbing the native peoples. Their arrival may have been responsible for ending the Cycladic and Minoan civilizations and brought the country into what is now referred to as the Dark Age of ancient Greece; although it is now understood among historians that civilization in Greece remained sophisticated and advanced during this time. The first Greek-speaking civilization, the Mycenean Civilization, centred in the Peloponnese region, was prominent during this time period.

Many ancient Greeks made a living from the sea, as their descendants the modern Greeks also do now. They became accomplished fishermen, sailors and traders and the sea has profoundly shaped Greek civilization.

Olympia, site of the Olympic Games in ancient times

Classical Greece

The rise of the Greek city-states occurred in the period 1200 to 800 BC and heralded the Golden Age of Greece, which lasted many centuries and spurred several scientific, architectural, political, economic, artistic, and literary achievements. Athens, Sparta, Corinth, and Thebes were the most prominent of the city-states (with Athens being the most prestigious), but there were several other advanced city-states and colonies that had developed across the Aegean basin. Greek settlements were also established in southern Italy and other coastal areas of the Mediterranean colonized by Greeks. The legacy of Greek Civilization from this time period made a major impact on the world and continues to influence us to this day.

Hellenistic and Roman eras

The epicenter of Greek Civilization shifted, during the 4th century BC, from southern Greece to northern Greece. The northern Macedonian kingdom, under Alexander the Great, conquered all of Greece, and proceeded eastward, creating an empire all the way to South Asia with the stated intent of spreading Greek Civilization. The empire broke up after Alexander’s death, and Greece was eventually annexed by the growing Roman Empire. Although weakened politically, Greek Civilization continued to flourish under Roman rule and heavily influenced Roman culture.

Arrival of Christianity and rise of Byzantine Empire

Christianity arrived in Greece with the preachings of St. Paul during the 1st century AD, and eventually spread throughout Greece and the Roman Empire. In the 4th century, Roman Emperor Constantine the Great legalized Christian worship and declared it the state religion of the empire. He moved the capital of the empire from Rome to Byzantium (present-day Istanbul), which he renamed Constantinople. Internal divisions eventually divided the Roman Empire into a western half (the West Roman Empire) and an eastern half (East Roman Empire.) The West was eventually invaded and sacked by invaders from northern Europe, while the East survived for another millennium as the Byzantine Empire with Constantinople as its capital.

Medieval Greece

Greece’s medieval history is dominated by the Byzantine Empire which revolved around Christianity, Greek Language and Civilization, and Roman law. It was a powerful force in the Mediterranean basin for centuries, engaging in trade, politics, and the spread of Christianity. The empire collaborated with Rome during the Crusades against the Muslims. However, during the 13th century, the Crusaders turned on the Byzantine Empire itself and sacked Constantinople. With a weakened Byzantine Empire, Frankish and Latin invaders arrived and occupied various parts of Greece. Over the following centuries, the Byzantine Empire began to regain strength and reconquer lost territory, but received a final blow in the 15th century when a growing Ottoman Turkish Empire to the east conquered Constantinople.

Ottoman rule

With the capture of Constantinople, Greece fell under Ottoman Turkish rule, but vigorously retained its Greek-speaking Christian culture. However, many Greeks fled the country, establishing Greek communities elsewhere in Europe; these communities would later influence the Greek Revolution.

Enlightenment and revolution

The Italian city-states of Genoa and Venice competed with the Ottoman Turks for control of various areas of Greece and managed to conquer various islands and coastal areas, bringing pan-European movements such as the Renaissance (and later the Enlightenment) to places in Greece such as Crete, Corfu, and parts of the Peloponnese region. In the 18th century, the Enlightenment, both in Venetian/Genoese-occupied areas of Greece and from Greek communities abroad, led to an awakening among prominent Greeks and gave birth to the goal of an independent, unified, and sovereign Greek state. The Greek Revolution finally broke out on the 25th of March, 1821, and led to a long war against the Ottomans for independence. The Greek Revolution gained attention across Europe, with Russia, Britain, and France sending military aid to assist Greece.

Athens’ Pláka district, with its 19th century character

19th Century to Mid-20th

The nation finally achieved its independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1829. The newly-independent Greek State was briefly a republic, before becoming a monarchy at the will of major European powers. During the second half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, Greece gradually annexed neighbouring islands and territories with Greek-speaking populations. The country sided with the allies during WWI. Despite declaring neutrality during WWII, the country was invaded by Mussolini’s military in 1941. Greek forces victoriously pushed the Italians out of Greece, but the Germans then came to their aid, occupying the country until its liberation toward the end of the war. Civil war broke out in 1946 between communist rebels and royalists, the former supported by Yugoslavia (until the Tito-Stalin rift of 1948) and the latter by the West. The communist rebels were defeated by the royalists in 1949. World War II and the civil war that followed had left the country war-torn, forcing many people to flee the country in search of a better life abroad.

Greece joined NATO in 1952; rapid economic growth and social change followed. A right-wing military dictatorship staged a coup in 1967, disbanding all political parties, suspending political liberties and forcing many prominent Greeks into exile, including Communists, who played an active part in the Greek Parliament before and after the junta. King Constantine II and his family also fled the country. Democracy returned in 1974, and a national referendum abolished the monarchy, creating a parliamentary republic.

Modern Greece

Greece joined the European Community or EC in 1981, which later became the European Union (EU) in 1992. The country’s tourism industry – which had begun to take off during the 1960s – began to flourish, bringing 5 million annual visitors to the country in 1980 (a figure that will eventually grow to over 17 million by 2007). The country suffered serious economic stagnation in the 1980s, but began to experience remarkable economic growth in the 1990s, fuelled by heavy investment, entrepreneurship, trade, and EU aid. By the early 21st century, the Greeks have achieved a stable and prosperous nation, with a high standard of living. An influx of immigrants began in the late 1980s, transforming Greece, once an immigrant-sender, into an immigrant-receiving country. Foreign-born residents, most of them undocumented and coming from various parts of the world (Eastern and Central Europe, Middle East, South and Southeast Asia, and Africa) are estimated to number at least 1 million, or equivalent to 10% of the population. In 2004, the nation stepped into the global spotlight as it successfully hosted the Summer Olympic Games in Athens, to the defiance of critics. More recently, it has borne the brunt of the late-2000s recession and related 2010 European sovereign debt crisis. The main issues facing Greek society are a high and growing level of bureaucratic corruption, high unemployment, sluggish economic growth and widespread poverty.

Climate

Despite its small size, Greece has a varied climate.

Most of the country, including all coastal areas, enjoys a so-called Mediterranean climate, almost identical to much of California. Summers are hot and dry with a 7-month period of near-constant sunshine generally from April until November. The remainder of the year is characterized by a relatively cold, rainy period which generally starts sometime in November and lasts until late March or early April. Sporadic rains do occur during the dry season, but they tend to be rare, quick showers. The country’s Ionian Coast and Ionian Islands tend to receive more annual precipitation than the rest of the country. The islands in the southern Aegean and parts of the southeastern mainland are the driest areas of the country.

The most pleasant weather occurs in May-June and September-October. The warmest time of the year starts in mid-July and generally lasts until mid-August, when the annual meltémi winds from the north cool the country. Mid-July to mid-August is the height of summer, and the midday sun tends to get very strong; during this time, most Greeks avoid heavy physical activity outdoors between 1PM and 5PM. It is best advised to get in tune with the local way of life by waking up early, doing all sightseeing and errands in the cool morning hours, and then spending the afternoon in the relaxing shade or at the beach. In fact, the bulk of tourists arrive in Greece during the height of summer, to do just that! For visitors from more northerly climates, the off season from November through February can be a rewarding time to see Greece. It will not be beach weather, but temperatures are mild. The much added bonus is that there will be very few other tourists and reduced prices.

Summer evenings tend to be very rewarding. As strong as the sun may get on a summer afternoon, the low levels of atmospheric humidity in most areas of the country prevent the air from trapping much heat, and temperatures tend to dip to very pleasant levels in the evenings. But even during midday, high temperatures actually tend to be quite comfortable as long as the time is not spent doing a lot of walking or other physical activity. (Athens, however, can still be uncomfortably warm during summer afternoons due to the predominance of concrete in the city, an effect similar to New York City.) Coastal areas near open waters (away from tightly-closed bays and gulfs), especially on many of the islands, tend to be quite breezy, and can be quite cold at night.

While the Mediterranean climate characterizes most of the country, two other climate systems are present. One is the cool Alpine climate which is found on mountainous areas of the country’s interior, including many high-altitude valleys. Another system is the Continental climate found on the interiors of north-central and northeastern Greece, and gives those areas very cold winters and warm, relatively humid summers.

Holidays and festivals

The following are national public holidays:

• New Year’s Day – 1 Jan
• Epiphany – 6 Jan
• Shrove Monday (First day of Lent) – movable
• Independence Day and The Annunciation – 25 Mar
• Good Friday – movable
• Easter Sunday – movable
• Easter Monday – movable
• May Day / Labor Day – 1 May
• Pentecost Whit Sunday – movable
• Pentecost Whit Monday – movable
• Assumption of Our Lady – 15 Aug
• WWII Day / “OHI(no) Day” – 28 Oct
• Christmas – 25 Dec
• Saint Stephen’s – 26 Dec

The nation’s three most important holidays are Christmas, Easter, and the Assumption. Christmas tends to be a private, family holiday, but lights and decorations adorn cities across the country. Assumption Day is a major summer festival for many towns and islands. Easter weekend is perhaps the most flamboyant of all holidays; religious processions on Good Friday and the following Saturday evening culminate in exuberant fireworks at midnight, Easter morning.

Contrary to most national holidays in other countries, Independence Day in Greece is a very sober holiday. There is a school flag parade in every town and village and a big armed forces parade in Athens.

Although not an official holiday, pre-Lenten carnival -or apókries– is a major celebration in cities throughout the country, with Patras hosting the country’s largest and most famous events. Carnival season comes to an extravagant ending the weekend before Lent begins, with costumes, float parades, and various regional traditions.

In addition to nation-wide holidays and celebrations, many towns and regions have their own regional festivals commemorating various historical events, local patron saints, or wine harvests.

Note that the Greek Orthodox Church uses a different method to determine the date of Easter from the Roman Catholic Church and the Protestant churches. Therefore, Greek Orthodox Easter and – derived from that – Holy Week and Pentecost usually fall one or two weeks later than their Roman Catholic and Protestant counterparts, but they do sometimes coincide.

Regions

The following geographic divisions reflect the approach to the country which will be taken by most travellers in deciding where to go. Administrative divisions are somewhat different. Articles within these five sections will be arranged with a view to enabling travellers to sort out which specific destinations best match their interests.

Get in

Passport and visa requirements

Greece is a member of the Schengen Agreement.

There are no border controls between countries that have signed and implemented this treaty – the European Union (except Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Ireland, Romania and the United Kingdom), Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland. Likewise, a visa granted for any Schengen member is valid in all other countries that have signed and implemented the treaty. But be careful: not all EU members have signed the Schengen treaty, and not all Schengen members are part of the European Union. This means that there may be spot customs checks but no immigration checks (travelling within Schengen but to/from a non-EU country) or you may have to clear immigration but not customs (travelling within the EU but to/from a non-Schengen country).

Please see the article Travel in the Schengen Zone for more information about how the scheme works and what entry requirements are.

Citizens of Antigua and Barbuda, the Bahamas, Barbados, Mauritius, Saint Kitts and Nevis and Seychelles are permitted to work in Greece without the need to obtain a visa or any further authorisation for the period of their 90 day visa-free stay. However, this ability to work visa-free does not necessarily extend to other Schengen countries.

For detailed regulations applied to your country, refer to the Greek Ministry for Foreign Affairs.

By plane

Athens’ Elefthérios Venizélos International Airport [1], near the Athens suburb of Spáta, is the country’s largest, busiest airport and main hub, handling about 15 million passengers annually. Other major international airports in terms of passenger traffic are, in order of passengers served per year, Heraklion (Nikos Kazantzákis Int’l), Thessaloniki (Makedonia Int’l), Rhodes (Diagóras), and Corfu (Ioánnis Kapodístrias).

Athens and Thessaloníki handle the bulk of scheduled international flights. However, during tourism season, several charter and planned low-budget flights arrive daily from many European cities to many of the islands and smaller cities on the mainland.

Aegean Airlines, a member of the Star Alliance network, covers almost all domestic flights (after buying the former Olympic Airways) and also operates international routes to Greece from a growing number of European cities. Athens is also well-served by airlines from all over Europe, the Middle East, North America, and Southeast Asia, with flights to their respective hubs.

The presence of low-cost carriers in Greece’s international market such as Easyjet, German Wings, Ryanair, Volotea, Wizzair and Norwegian Air has increased more than tenfold within the past decade, offering service to Athens and Thessaloníki from several other European locations and the Middle East

By train

International train are back to work, you can take a train to Sofia, Belgrade, and Skopje.

The state train company is Trainose (Τραινοσε). The website of the company is available in English [2] and you can proceed through it and buy tickets online. However this is not an option for the international train routes and if you select to buy a ticket for abroad you will be given the option to buy the international route with a bus (λεωφ) service rather than the train service.

Thessaloniki is Greece’s hub for international rail service. Trains connect Thessaloníki to Sofia (1 daily) and Belgrade via Skopje (1 daily).

There are special fares as Balkan Flexipass and other offers e.g. the City-Star Ticket form Czech Republic to Greece.

By car

Greece can be entered by car from any of its land neighbours. From Italy, ferries will transport cars to Greece. From western Europe, the most popular route to Greece was through Yugoslavia. Following the troubles in the former Yugoslavia during the 1990s, most motorists from western Europe came overland by Italy, and then took a trans-Adriatic ferry from there. Although the countries of the former Yugoslavia have since stabilized, and Hungary-Romania-Bulgaria form another, albeit a much longer, alternative, the overland route through Italy now remains the most popular option.

By bus

There is some, albeit limited, international bus service to neighboring Albania, Bulgaria, North Macedonia, and Turkey, as well as Serbia, Hungary, Austria and Munich in Germany

By boat

From Italy, several ferries depart for Greece daily. Ferries to Patras (Pátra), Igoumenítsa, and Corfu (Kérkyra) leave throughout the year from the Italian port cities of Venice, Trieste, Ancona, Bari and Brindisi.

From Turkey there are ferries: from Marmaris to Rhodes, from Cesme to Chios, from Bodrum to Kos, from Kusadasi to Samos.

There are also ferries connecting Piraeus and Rhodes to Alexandria (Egypt), Larnaca and Limassol (Cyprus), and Haifa (Israel).

See Ferries in the Mediterranean

Greece is blessed with a beautiful coastline which is best explored by boat to access the hundreds of islands. There are a number of local and online charter companies who can offer endless options for renting a boat and sailing Greece’s coast and islands.

Get around

General considerations

According to the United Kingdom, Greece is subject to frequent strikes, leading to trouble getting around in Central Athens. Stay informed!

A frequently asked question of travellers in Greece is whether they should rent a car. The primary advantage of having a car is that you can cover a lot more ground per day if you’re travelling in rural areas or on the larger islands: you can get almost anywhere in Greece by bus, but some isolated villages may only have one or two buses per day, and having your own car means you don’t have to wait in the summer heat for the bus to come. Almost all archaeological sites are accessible by bus, but at some of the more remote, less famous, sites, the bus may drop you off up to a mile away from the site, while with a car you can almost always get right to the site via at least a rough road.

On the other hand, going car-free in Greece is not only possible, but offers significant advantages, while driving involves a number of disadvantages. Though many people find driving in Greece easy and even pleasant, others are concerned by the high accident rate (one of the highest in Europe), the national reputation for risky driving, and the presence of many twisty mountainous roads, sometimes hugging the side of a cliff. Gas is very expensive. (For more on driving conditions in Greece see below.) Driving in Athens and other big cities can be a frustrating, and sometimes hair-raising, experience, and finding parking can be very difficult. And having a car greatly restricts your flexibility when island-hopping, since only the larger, and usually slower, ferries offer car transport, which must be paid for in addition to your passenger ticket. Travelling by bus is not only cheaper but offers a greater chance of striking up conversations with both locals and other travellers than going by car. Language is not usually a problem for English speakers in using public transit: wherever there is significant tourism in Greece bus schedules are posted in English, and bus drivers and conductors, as well as taxi drivers, will understand at least enough English to answer your questions.

Public transit can be supplemented by taxis (see below), which in many places, especially the islands, offer fixed rates to various beaches, which can be affordable especially if the price is shared among several people. And on many islands it’s possible to get places by walking, which can be a pleasant experience in itself. Alternatively you can discover Greece by following guided tours through Greekholidays [3]

By bus and train

Intercity buses are a very popular option for domestic travel. KTEL is the national government-subsidized network of independent businesses which cooperate together to form a dense route system serving almost the entire country. The system is efficient, reliable, and relatively inexpensive. It serves both long and short distances, including routes from major cities to islands near the mainland, such as Corfu and Cephalonia (in such cases, the ferry crossing is included in the price of the bus ticket).

Trains are a better way to get around, but the national rail system (OSE) is very limited. This is due to neglect after the arrival of large scale automobile use and air travel, and also due to past technological difficulties in surmounting the country’s difficult terrain. The importance of rail travel is now being rediscovered, and the national rail network is currently under major renovation and is being completed in stages. The main line is the Athens – Thessaloniki (4.5 hours) which has by far the most passengers and train frequency in the country. Other lines include the incomplete Athens – Patras line (the train stops close to Corinth and then passengers need to catch the bus to Patras) the Thessaloniki – Xanthi line and the Lamia – Kalampaka line (the last 2 aren’t electric).

By car

Exploring the country by car can be an extremely rewarding experience, allowing you to explore the incredibly scenic and varied terrain of the country’s coastlines, interior, and islands, at your convenience. Roads are usually well-marked and well-maintained, and billions of Euros are being poured into expanding the nation’s network of multi-lane freeways. Because of the rapid expansion and improvement of the nation’s road system, it is advised to have the most updated road map(s) possible. Many of the newer motorways are toll roads, and fees can be expensive. Road signs in Greek are usually repeated with a transliterated version in the Latin alphabet.

Automobile rental agencies are present throughout the country, especially in major cities and in highly visited areas. The cars offered are overwhelmingly manual transmission; automatics do exist, but it is advised to reserve one in advance. Gasoline/petrol prices are very steep, as in Germany or Italy. Some car rental agencies and insurance policies do not allow taking the car out of the country.

Drivers who do not hold an EEA or Swiss driving licence must carry an international driver’s permit obtained in their home country. This may not be required when renting a car, but will certainly be required if the driver is involved in an accident or pulled over by the police for a traffic offence. Insurance policies may be void if the driver is a non-EEA driver without an international permit.

For those used to driving in North America, driving in Greece can be a challenge. To them Greek (and other European) drivers might appear aggressive. Also the nation’s topographic reality poses challenges by forcing many narrow roads in mountainous regions to take several twists and turns. Roads in towns and villages can be surprisingly narrow as well. If cars meet on a narrow stretch of road it is customary for one driver to find a spot to pull over and let the other driver pass. At times, one driver will need to back up for the other. Adherence to this practice is expected and failure to do so will bring the ire of your fellow drivers. Drive slowly through villages and small towns, because there are often pedestrians in the roadway. Another major difference between driving in North America and Greece is the range of speeds at which vehicles travel, particularly on the highways. While speed limits are as high as 120km/h (75mph), some vehicles will be travelling as slowly as 60km/h (36mph). Other vehicles will travel at speeds well in excess of the posted limits and can come up from behind very quickly.

By ferry

The frequency, reliability and availability of Greek ferries [4] are largely dependent upon the time of year. For instance, during the winter off-season (January to March), the weather on the Aegean can be extremely rough and boats are often kept in port for days at a time. This type of delay is extremely unpredictable (it is not a decision of the ferry companies, but rather, that of the port authority) and determining when a harbored boat will actually set sail is near impossible. Therefore, travellers in off-season should build some flexibility into their schedule and not plan on departing an island in the morning and catching a flight home in the afternoon. On the opposite end of the spectrum, ferries in August fill up due to the National Holiday (Aug 15), so travellers should plan ahead.

As for routes, during high-season there are extensive connections from Athens and quite a few in-between islands for “hopping.” Again, in the winter, some of these ferries run once, maybe twice a week.

Visitors to Greece planning to travel by ferry should be aware of some potential complications. First, it can’t be assumed that you can get from any given island to any other island every day of the week. The Greek ferry system is basically a hub-and-spoke system, with the spokes radiating from Piraeus out to the various island groups. As a result, boats within the groups are fairly frequent, but less so between the groups. Sometime islands which are geographically close together are in different groups: for instance, the Western Cyclades (Serifos, Sifnos, Milos) look very close on a map to the Central Cyclades (Naxos, Paros, Mykonos,) but these groups are on different spokes, meaning you can usually in summer get from one island to another in the same group on any day, but boats between the groups, e.g. Naxos to Sifnos, may be significantly less frequent. Second, trying to find advance information on ferry schedules can be frustrating: unfortunately there exists no single official comprehensive source for Greek ferry schedules either in print or on line, though there are a number private sites run by travel agents or other businesses which claim to give comprehensive schedules, and many of the individual ferry companies have web sites giving their schedules, in some cases offering the ability to book and pay for tickets on line. (Ferry schedules are also always posted at the boat ticket offices in departure ports.) Next, though getting a ticket usually isn’t a problem, some boats to the most popular destinations, especially those leaving at the most convenient times, do sell out in high season or on holiday weekends. Finally, though ferries nowadays usually run on schedule, weather, strikes, and mechanical breakdowns still can occasionally delay them. None of these problems are insuperable, but they do mean you shouldn’t try to micromange your ferry itinerary too strictly in advance: be flexible, and always have a backup plan. And it’s always a good idea not to count on taking a ferry from the islands to get back to Athens the same day your plane leaves, even if boat schedules theoretically should enable you to do this: this will probably work, but there’s enough of a chance it won’t to make it prudent to plan on getting back to Athens at least one day before your flight.

There are three ports in Athens: the main port Piraeus and outlying Rafina and Lavrio port. These serve all islands, but central Cyclades islands such as Tinos and Mykonos, it is often better to leave from Rafina. Igoumenitsa is a port located in Epirus, in the extrem northwest of the country, south of the Albanian border. Connections with Italy and Croatia work all along the year. Patras is another primary port regarding western routes, located in the Northwestern Peloponnese. From there, you can find ferries to Venice, Corfu, Zakinthos, Ithaca and even Crete, amongst others.

Ferries are about the one thing in Greece that leave on time so be prompt. New “fast ferries” are cutting distance times in half but prices are slightly more expensive. Sometimes, it is more practical to fly, especially to Crete or Rhodes. However, flights are usually more expensive. Santorini is 8 hour slow boat from Athens but the entrance view from the boat is spectacular.

The major ferry companies operating in Greece include:

• Aegean Speed Lines (Cyclades) [5]

• Agoudimos Lines (International and Greek Islands) [6]

• ANEK Lines (Crete and international) [7]

• Blue Star Ferries (Italy-Greece and Aegean Islands) [8]

• Euroseas (Saronic Gulf) [9]

• Hellenic Seaways (Aegean Islands) [10]

• Minoan Lines (Italy-Greece and Crete) [11]

• SAOS Ferries (Aegean Islands and northern mailand) [12]

• Superfast Ferries (Italy-Greece) [13]

• Ventouris Ferries (Italy-Greece) [14]

Schedules and web sites for some very local ferry services may be found on the destination pages for the relevant islands or ports.

Though this guide usually doesn’t list transportation web sites unless they’re run by a government or by a primary transportation provider (like the shipping companies listed above), because of the great interest in Greek ferry schedules and the fact that there’s no single official source for them, in this case readers are referred to the comprehensive Greek ferry schedule sites at GreeceFerries [15], Greek Travel Pages [16] and OpenSeas [17].

See also Continental Greece in ten days

By plane

The nation’s domestic air travel industry is dominated by Aegean Airlines [18], which incorporated the traditional carrier Olympic airways. Also, Ryanair, Volotea, Ellinair, skyair, operate many domestic flights in mainland and islands. They offer an extensive route network within the country, including service connecting several islands to the mainland.

By taxi

There are many taxis in Greece, but in the large cities, Athens in particular, getting one can be quite a challenge! Taxi drivers are known for being quite rude and not taking you if they feel like it. You hail taxis like in any other large city, but in Athens many taxis will refuse to take you if they don’t like your destination. If you need a taxi during rush hour, it can be next to impossible to find one going outside the perimeter of Athens(they all say they are going home, or worse, they ignore you). If you want to go to a beach in the southern suburbs such as Glyfada, what I have found helpful in a moment of desperation is to find a hotel and get a taxi from there, much easier.

A word about luggage and transport from the airport. Most taxis will not take more than three people but will load their trunks with luggage hanging out if need be since the cars can be very small.

If you need a taxi from the ferry at night from Pireaus, good luck! The drivers who wait outside are looking to take at least three different individuals going in the same direction so they can charge three fares! I found if you are two or three people, only one person should hail the cab and then if he agrees to take you, have the other(s) jump in.

The taxi situation has improved since the Olympics when they retrained all the drivers to be more polite, but getting a cab in Athens can still be a real pain in the neck!

By yacht

If you have enough money to spend or many people to split the cost, a yacht is undoubtedly the most fulfilling, relaxed and enjoyable way to get around Greece. Most of the important tourist destinations in the country are next to the sea or a few kilometres away and thus can be easily visited by boat. Apart from that, the country has more than 6000 uninhabited islands that in their majority are hard to visit without having a private boat, with beaches that are much more quiet and clean than those of the mainstream islands. If your time in the country is limited and you don’t want to waste too much time wandering in the sea, taking a cruise across the Cyclades or the Ionian islands are your best options.

Yachts can be rented from many areas and you will not have diffuculty finding one. Sailboats are more affordable, with prices starting at around 1000 euros per week, but at the same time are slower and cannot travel when there is too much wind, which is something common in the summer. Even if you are an experienced captain yourself it is a good idea to hire a skipper as he will know the best beaches of each area.

Talk

Greek is the national official language and is the native tongue of the vast majority of the population, but the English speaking visitor will encounter no significant language problem. English is the most widely studied and understood foreign language in Greece, spoken by more than 75% of its population, followed by French, Italian, and German. Basic knowledge of English can be expected from almost all personnel in the tourism industry and public transport services, as well as almost all Greeks under the age of 50. However, learning a few Greek terms, such as “hello” and “thank you” will be warmly received.

The Latin and Cyrillic alphabets were derived from the Greek alphabet and about half of Greek letters look like their Latin counterparts, especially capitals letters, and most Greek letters resemble their Cyrillic counterparts. With a bit of study it’s not too hard to decipher written names, and common terms such as “hotel”, “cafeteria”, etc. And you’ll find that place names on road signs throughout the country are often transliterated into Latin letters (some signs, especially on the newer roads, are even outright translated into English). Basically, the closest to Athens (and borders) you are, the most likely you’ll find a Latin transcription on signs. Some letters could also be tricky, as they are identical in shape to another Latin letter with another value, such as “Η” and “Ρ”, which stand respectively for “I/E” and “R”.

See

Few countries can pride themselves on a heritage as important to Western civilization as Greece. A range of first class historic landmarks remind one of the days when the great Greek emperors and writers made their mark on the development of science, literature and democracy. No less than 17 of those monuments are listed as World Heritage Sites. However, the many charming little islands, sandy beaches and picturesque whitewashed coastal towns are at least as much a reason to come for the millions of tourists that this Mediterranean country receives each year.

Cultural heritage

A mosaic in the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes

World famous are the iconic Parthenon in the bustling capital Athens and the splendid site of Delphi, where the mighty emperors sought the prophecies of the most prominent oracle in the ancient Greek world. There’s the temple of Apollo at Bassae and the gorgeous old city of Rhodes, once overlooked by the Colossus of Rhodes. The archaeological site of Olympia is the birthplace of our modern Olympic Games and the place from where the Olympic flame is sent across the world. The many Eastern Orthodox monasteries of Meteora are just stunning to look at, built high on natural sandstone rock pillars. At the small town of Vergina the ancient site of Agai was found, and many valuable artifacts were discovered in several untouched tombs, one of them being the tomb of Philip II of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great. Proudly situated on Mt. Taygetos is the ancient town of Mystras, close to (and often mistaken for) ancient Sparta. Another great site is the island of Delos, not far from the popular holiday destination Mykonos. According to myths, this is were Apollo and Artemis were born. The island used to be the main Panhellenic sanctuary and is now dotted with archaeological remains.

Some major sights are nicely located on one of the beautiful Greek islands, allowing for a delightful combination of sightseeing and relaxing on one of the many fine beaches. Patmos is a lovely example, boasting the historic centre Chora, the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian and the Cave of the Apocalypse, but also some pleasant sea side restaurants with pretty views. Corfu has the same characteristics, being a popular holiday destination with good beaches and an impressive historic town centre. The beach towns of Samos, just a stone’s throw away from the Turkish mainland, are a good place to try the islands local wines (famous in the ancient world!). On the island are also the World Heritage Temple of Hera, the remains of the fortified port of Pythagoreion and the famous Tunnel of Eupalinos, a 1 km long subterranean aqueduct built in the 6th century BC. Although not an island, the ancient Mount Athos is located in the north of Greece, on the peninsula of Chalkidiki. It’s one of the country’s most popular tourist regions with excellent beaches, numerous other ancient sites and many charming villages.

If you still want more of the historic stuff, admire the massive Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus or the Archaeological Sites of Mycenae and Tiryns. The Monasteries of Daphni (Athens), Hosios Loukas (Beotia) and Nea Moni (on the island of Chios) complete the World Hertiage listings for Greece.

Islands

The beach of Elafonisi, Crete

When it comes to Greece’s famously gorgeous islands, it’s hard to take your pick out of the 6000 options you have, 227 of them being inhabited. Their rocky coast lines, sandy beaches, charming villages, sheltered bays and many yacht harbours make them extremely popular among all kinds of travellers. The large island of Crete is a highly popular tourist destination, with landscapes varying from great sandy palm beaches to snow-covered high peaks and stunning river gorges and a good deal of night life in its main tourist towns. If you’re looking to party at night, lovely Mykonos or Ios are good options too. The volcanic island of Santorini is one of the most romantic picks and offers some spectacular views. Its whitewashed capital of Fira is dramatically situated on the edge of a 400m high cliff, overlooking a beautiful blue lagoon. Other popular ones are Lesbos, Paros, Lefkada and Kos. The National Marine Park on Zakynthos is the primary nesting ground for loggerhead sea turtles in the Mediterranean. The rugged, green hills and valleys of Kefalonia boast a number of vineyards, and the island’s cliffs and beautiful beaches make it a tourist hotspot. For a slightly more authentic and less touristy experience, try Syros, Amorgos, Thasos or any of the other small and less developed islands.

Money

Greece has the euro (€) as its sole currency along with 24 other countries that use this common European money. These 24 countries are: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia and Spain (official euro members which are all European Union member states) as well as Andorra, Kosovo, Monaco, Montenegro, San Marino and the Vatican which use it without having a say in eurozone affairs and without being European Union members. Together, these countries have a population of more than 330 million.

One euro is divided into 100 cents. While each official euro member (as well as Monaco, San Marino and Vatican) issues its own coins with a unique obverse, the reverse, as well as all bank notes, look the same throughout the eurozone. Every coin is legal tender in any of the eurozone countries.

Currency exchanges are common particularly in larger cities and any heavily visited area. In addition to hard currency, they also accept traveller’s cheques. There are also automated currency exchange machines in some areas of the country, particularly at the Athens airport. Most banks will also exchange euros for some currencies -such as the US dollar and pound sterling – often times at better rates than currency exchanges. Banks’ commission fees for these exchanges are usually structured so that it’s more economical to change larger sums than smaller. Usually, only the larger, international-standard hotels will exchange money for their guests.

As of this writing, branches of the Greek bank Alphabank will exchange US$ American Express traveller’s cheques into euros at their usual bank rates without fee or commission, which can result in a significant savings. They also cash Euro American Express traveller’s cheques without charge.

When changing money in large amounts at a bank or currency exchange, it’s a good idea to ask for mostly smaller notes, and nothing larger than a €50. Many businesses are reluctant to accept notes of larger than €50, partly because of a scarcity of change, partly because larger notes have a history of being counterfeited.

You may get better exchange rates by using credit and ATM cards. MasterCard, Visa, and Eurocard are widely accepted across the country in retail stores, hotels, and travel/transportation agencies (including ferry, airline, and car rental agencies), but are not accepted at some restaurants. Local souvenir shops usually require a minimum purchase before allowing you to use your card and may not accept it for special sales or deeply discounted items. ATM machines are present almost everywhere, with MasterCard/Cirrus and Visa/Plus being the most widely accepted cards. Many ATM machines may not accept 5-digit pin numbers; ATM card-users with 5-digit pins are advised to change their pin to 4 digits before leaving home.

Value Added Tax (VAT) is charged on most items, usually included in the item’s price tag but some shops offer “Tax Free” shopping to non-EU residents. This means that non-EU residents can ask for a VAT refund at their port of exit in the EU. Be sure to ask for your voucher before leaving the store and show that along with your items to the customs officer upon departure from the EU.

Bargaining

But for minor exceptions (like the Athens Monastiraki district and most street vendors) most Greeks consider bargaining an oriental coarseness, thus attempting one will likely be ineffective and considered impolite. Even if bargaining is accepted, you should generally not expect a discount of more than 10%. However, you may manage to buy most things with a 15-20% discount if you ask the shopowner for “no receipt”, but obviously this will never work for chain stores.

Eat

Greek (horiatiki (village) salata) salad

Moussaka

Greek cuisine is a blend of indigenous traditions and foreign influences. The two most important neighboring countries of Greece, Italy and Turkey, have left a major impact on Greek cuisine, and there are shared dishes with both of these nations. Also as a highly cosmopolitan nation with at least half of its population living in diaspora, Greeks have brought back to their homeland culinary elements and recipies from all over the world. The traditional Greek diet is very Mediterranean, espousing vegetables, herbs, and grains native to the Mediterranean biome. Being a highly maritime nation, the Greeks incorporate plenty of seafood into their diet. The country is also a major consumer of lamb, beef, pork, and especially chicken–they’re highly popular. Olive oil is a staple in Greek cooking, and lemon, onions, garlic, tomatoes and oregano are common ingredients. Bread and wine are always served at the dinner table.

The cuisine in Greece can be radically different from what is offered in Greek restaurants around the world. Greek restaurants abroad tend to cater more to customer expectations rather than offer a truly authentic Greek dining experience. One example is the famous gyros (yi-ros), composed of various grilled fatty pork meats, a common item on Greek menus outside Greece. While it is a popular fast-food item in Greece today, it is actually a relatively recent foreign import (adapted from the Turkish döner kebap) and is considered by Greeks as junk food. It is never served in the home and is generally not found on the menus of non-fast-food restaurants.

Eating out is Greece’s national pastime and a rewarding experience for visitors; however, not knowing where to go or what to do can dampen the experience. In the past, restaurants that catered mostly to tourists were generally disappointing. Thankfully, the nation’s restaurant industry has grown in sophistication over the past decade, and it is now possible to find excellent restaurants in highly-touristed areas, particularly areas that are popular with Greek tourists as well. Thus, it remains a good idea to dine where Greeks dine (Go search them at the times Greeks dine: 21:00-23:00). The best restaurants will offer not only authentic traditional Greek cuisine (along with regional specialities) but Greece’s latest culinary trends as well. A good sign of authenticity is when you get a small free dessert when you ask for the bill. Bad signs are when desserts are listed on the menu, and also when the waiter is taking your plates away while you are still sitting at the table (traditionally everything is left on the table until the customer is gone, even if there is hardly any space left).

Restaurants serving international cuisine have also made a presence in the country, offering various options such as Chinese, French, Italian, and international contemporary.

Vegetarian

In Greece, vegetarianism never took off as a trend, and restaurants catering strictly to vegetarians are practically non-existent. However, Greeks traditionally eat less meat per capita than northern Europeans and North Americans, and there are countless vegetarian dishes in Greek cuisine. Greeks are meat and dairy eaters, but because such a large percentage of their diet consists of pulses, vegetables, greens and fruits, a vegan or vegetarian visitor will not have any difficulty in finding a huge variety of vegetarian food all over Greece. The Porto Club [19] travel agency offers a number of tours designed for vegetarians and vegans.

Popular local dishes

The traditional fast foods are gyros (γύρος, “GHEER-ohs”, not “JIE-rohs” as in “gyroscope”), roast pork or chicken (and rarely beef) and fixings wrapped in a fried pita; souvlaki (σουβλάκι, “soov-LAH-kee”), grilled meat on a skewer; Greek dips such as tzatziki (τζατζίκι), made of strained yoghurt, olive oil, garlic and finely chopped cucumbers and dill or mint; and skordhalia (σκορδαλιά), a garlic mashed potato dip which is usually served with deep fried salted cod.

With its extensive coastline and islands, Greece has excellent seafood. Try the grilled octopus and the achinosalata (sea-urchin eggs in lemon and olive oil). By law, frozen seafood must be marked as such on the menu. Fresh fish, sold by the kilo, can be very expensive; if you’re watching your budget, be sure to ask how much your particular portion will cost before ordering it.

Greek salad (called “country salad” locally, “choreatiki”), a mix of tomatoes, cucumber, feta cheese and onion – all sliced – plus some olives, and occasionally green bell pepper or other vegetables, usually garnished with oregano. Traditionally it is dressed only with olive oil; vinegrette or lettuce are added only in the most tourist-oriented restaurants.

Also consider:

• moussaka, a rich oven-baked dish of eggplant, minced meat, tomato and white sauce
• pastitsio, a variety of lasagna
• stifado, pieces of meat and onion in a wine and cinnamon stew
• spetzofai, braised sausage with pepper and tomatoes, a hearty dish originally from the Mt. Pelion region
• sahanaki, fried semi-hard cheese
• paidakia, grilled lamb chops, are also popular. They tend to have a gamier taste and chewier texture than North American lamb chops, which you may or may not like

Fried potatoes (often listed on menus as chips) are a naturalized Greek dish, found almost everywhere. They can be very good when freshly made and served still hot. Tzatziki is usually a good dip for them, though they are still good on their own.

For dessert, ask for baklava, tissue-thin layers of pastry with honey and chopped nuts; or galaktoboureko, a custard pie similar to mille feuille. Other pastries are also worth tasting. Another must-try is yogort with honey: yoghurts in Greece are really different from what you used to see at Danone stores: to start with, genuine yoghurt in Greece is has 10% of fat. Fruit such as watermelon is also a common summertime treat.

For breakfast, head to local bakeries (fourno) and try fresh tiropita, cheese pie; spanakopita, spinach pie; or bougatsa, custard filled pie, or even a “”horiatiko psomi”, a traditional, crusty village type bread that is a household staple, and very tasty on its own too. All are delicious and popular among Greeks for quick breakfast eats. Each bakery does own rendition and you are never disappointed. Go to the next Kafeneion with them and have it there with a Greek coffee to be local.

A popular drink is a frappe made with instant Nescafe, water, sugar and sometimes milk. It is frothed and served over ice. It is usually cheaper than the western-type coffees and served in more generous amounts.

Cover fee

It’s common to charge a cover fee in restaurants, especially of the intermediate to high quality ones, officially (i.e. stating it in a receipt), such as €0.30 to €2 per person, which sometimes includes bread-bread sticks and some kind of vegetable or olive pate but if it’s tending towards €2 you should really consider eating somewhere else.

Just-in-time

For things such as bread and fresh orange juice, the just-in-time principle is often used: bread or oranges are purchased by the cafe right after the first order is taken. So don’t be surprised if your waiter returns to the cafe with a bag of oranges after accepting your order. And this is how fresh bread is guaranteed in most places.

Fast food

McDonald’s and Goody’s and Pizza Hut have made a significant presence in Greece over the past 15 years. However, they face strong competition from the popular local chains.

Goody’s [20] is the most popular fast-food chain in the country, offering a large variety of fast food meals, with numerous outlets throughout the country. A more recent chain is Everest [21] which specializes in hand-held snacks. Flocafé [22] is gaining popularity through its coffee and dessert items. There are also many independently-owned fast food businesses that offer typical fast food items, such as gyros. Many of these small businesses tend to be open late at night, and are popular with younger crowds on their way home from a night out.

Drink

Those wishing to partake of alcoholic beverages in Greece would be well advised to stick to the traditional domestic Greek products discussed below, which are freely available, mostly cheap by European standards, and usually of good quality. For non-local drinks avoid places that mainly cater to young, foreign tourists (such as all-inclusive resorts in party islands) as drinks there will, more often than not, be mixed with ingredients (thus, giving them the appellation “bomba” )that will make you feel sorry the following morning. Stick to decent places that cater mainly to Greeks.

Water

A glass of water, in contrast with many other European countries, is traditionally served free of charge with any drink you order; one glass for each drink, especially with any form of coffee, sweets and pastries. Sometimes you even get a glass of water first and then get asked what you want to drink. Sometimes you might as well get a bottle instead of just a glass. In touristy areas you might have to ask for a glass of water if you want one. If you don’t get water with a coffee you just stepped into a tourist-trap. In general ask for a glass of water or a jug of water that is free of charge, or steel-cap bottled water that you have to pay for it in a very reasonable price. In addition, in contrast with other European countries most bottles of water are not sparkly.

Tap water in most places a traveller would go today is drinkable; if in doubt, ask your hotel. But often though technically drinkable it doesn’t taste very good, especially on some small islands (as it is imported in and heavily chlorinated), and many travellers, like many Greeks, prefer to stick to bottled water. By law, water prices in shops must remain within acceptable and very cheap limits (50 eurocents for 1/2 litre), making it much cheaper than in Anglosphere nations.

Wines

To be able to purchase alcohol in Greece you must be 17, but there is no legal drinking age. ID checking is infrequent, especially in venues that sell food. (many independent fast food outlets will serve alcohol)

Greece, an ancient wine producing country, offers a wide variety of local wines, from indigenous and imported grape varieties, including fortified and even sparkling wines. Greek wines are generally not available on the international market, as production is relatively small, costs are quite high and little remains for export. However, in the past decade Greek wines have won many international prizes, with the rise of a new generation of wineries. Exports are rising as well.

Wine (Krasi: κρασι / oenos: οίνος) is most Greeks’ drink of choice.

Almost every taverna has “barrel wine,” usually local, which is usually of good quality and a bargain (€6-8 per kg, but check this before ordering when you are in a touristy area!).

If they have it, try also the Imiglyko (Half-Sweet) red, even if sweet wine is usually not your preferred thing, it is diffrent from anything you know.

Retsina is a “resinated wine” with a strong, distinctive taste that can take some getting used to; the flavor comes from pine resin, which was once employed as a sealant for wine flasks and bottles. The most well-known and cheap-n-dirty is “Kourtaki Retsina”, as well as “Malamatina”.

Bottled wines have gotten increasingly more expensive; some that the beginner may find worth trying are whites from Santorini and reds from Naoussa and Drama.

Local producers include:

• Boutari [23] (regions: Peloponnese, Crete, Goumenissa, Santorini, Naoussa).
• Skouras [24] (region of Peloponnese). Good selection found in several tourist shops in Nafplion.
• Mercouri Estate [25] (region of Peloponnese).
• Gentilini [26] (region of Kefalonia). Recommended by Dorling Kindesley’s Eyewitness Travel Guides: Greek Islands, 2001;
• region of Santorini:
  • Canava Argyros.
  • Volcan Wines [27]. Also, a Volcan Wine Museum.
  • Santo Wines. [28]

• region of Crete:
  • Peza Union [29]
  • Sitia Agricultural Cooperatives Union [30]
  • Creta Olympias Winery [31]
  • Minos Wines. [32]
  • Lyrarakis Wines [33]
  • Douloufakis Wines [34]
  • Michalakis Winery [35]
• Tsantali [36]

Beer

Even if beer (bira: μπύρα) is consumed all around the country, don’t come to Greece for the beer. The only local varieties widely available are Mythos, Vergina, Alpha, Fix. Basically, all are the same, a refreshing 5° lager. Fix launched a stout, “Dark Fix”, and Vergina, launced Vergina Red, but don’t expect to find them everywhere. Besides, Greeks drink mostly Northern European beers produced under license in Greece like Heineken and Amstel. Heineken is affectionately known as “green”; order it by saying “Mia Prasini.” Some pubs within major cities also provide with draft Irish, Czech and German beers. Lately there is a tremendous increase in the number of high quality but pricier microbrewery firms, which are locally produced, including new organic beers. These includes excellent microbreweries like Craft, (the first one), Piraiki Zythopoiia (organic produced), Septem Microbrewery, Neda Beer. Many of them have limited distribution in bars, even though you can find some of them in Super Markets, but if you find one its worth trying.

Liquor

A bottle of ouzo

The most famous indigenous Greek liquor is ouzo (ούζο), an anise-flavored strong spirit (37.5%), which is transparent by itself but turns milky white when mixed with water (ouzo effect). Mainlanders do not drink ouzo with ice, but tourists and Greek islanders generally do. A 200 mL bottle can be under €2 in supermarkets and rarely goes above €8 even in expensive restaurants. Mytilene (Lesbos) is particularly famous for its ouzo. A few to try are “Mini” and “Number 12,” two of the most popular made in a middle-of-the-road style, “Sans Rival,” one of the most strongly anise-flavored ones, “Arvanitis,” much lighter, and the potent “Barba Yianni” and “Aphrodite,” more expensive and much appreciated by connoisseurs.

Raki or tsikoudia is the Greek equivalent of the Italian grappa, produced by boiling the remains of the grapes after the wine has been squeezed off. It is quite strong (35-40% of alcohol) and in the summer months it is served cold. It costs very little when one buys it in supermarkets or village stores. The raki producing process has become a male event, as usually men are gathering to produce the raki and get drunk by constantly trying the raki as it comes out warm from the distillery. One raki distillery in working order is exhibited in Ippikos Omilos Irakleiou in Heraklion, but they can be found in most large villages. In northern Greece it is also called tsipouro (τσίπουρο). In Crete, raki is traditionally considered an after-dinner drink and is often served with fruit as dessert.

Mastiha is a sweet liqueur seasoned with mastic, a unique resin with a slightly pine or cedar-like flavor gathered from the mastic tree, a small evergreen tree native to the Greek island of Chios. It is usually offered at shots after dessert and comes in a wide variety of alcohol content (15-40%).

Many other types of fruit-based liqueurs, especially Limoncello, are produced locally and are becoming increasingly popular.

Coffee

Coffee (kafes: καφές) is an important part of Greek culture.

The country is littered with kafetéries (kafetéria singular) which are cafes that serve as popular hangouts for Greeks, especially among the under-35s. They tend to be pretty trendy -yet relaxed- and serve a variety of beverages from coffee, to wine, beer, spirits, as well as snacks, desserts, and ice cream. In the pleasant months of spring, summer, and fall, all kafetéries provide outdoor tables/seating and they are busiest with customers in the late afternoon and evening hours. Several kafetéries also double as bars towards the evening.

Kafeneia (coffee houses) are ubiquitous, found even in the smallest village, where they traditionally served a function similar to that of the village pub in Ireland. Their clientèle tends to be overwhelmingly men over 50, however everyone is welcome, male or female, young or old, Greek or foreigner; and you will be treated extremely courteously. However, if you’re not interested in cultural immersion to this extent, you may find the kafeneia pretty boring.

Traditionally, coffee is prepared with the grounds left in. It is actually a somewhat lighter version of Turkish coffee but in Greece it’s only known as Greek coffee – “ellinikós kafés” or simply “ellinikós.” Despite being slightly lighter than the original Turkish coffee, it remains a thick, strong black coffee, served in a small cup either sweetened or unsweetened. If you don’t specify, the coffee is usually served moderately sweet. Greek coffee traditionally was made by boiling the grounds and water on a stove in a special small pot called a “briki”.

During the hot summer months, the most popular coffee at the kafetéries is frappé (φραπέ): shaken iced instant coffee. This is actually an original Greek coffee and can be really refreshing, ordered with or without milk, sweetened or unsweetened.

Coffee can also be made espresso-style, French press (mainly at hotels), and with modern filter technology. The latter is sometimes known as Γαλλικός: gallikos (“French”) which can lead to some confusion with the press method. It is best to ask for φίλτρου: filtrou, which refers unambiguously to filter coffee. It is best not to ask for black coffee, as it is unlikely that anyone will understand what you are asking for.

Espresso freddo or cappuccino freddo are also gaining popularity. Espresso fredo is simply espresso + ice (no milk or foam); cappuccino freddo may be served from mousse containers, not prepared just-in-time; be careful to check.

Tea

While Greece has many cultural similarities with the Middle East (especially in the culinary sector) it surprisingly doesn’t have a tea culture, which is snubbed by the young population as a drink only for the old and sick. Tea (chai: τσάι) is still served in most cafeterias, but do not expect anything more than a limited choice of flavored tea bags served in european-style cups.

On the contrary, iced tea is very popular. However, keep in mind that in mass-sector taverns and cafe, iced tea typically means instant; ask twice if you prefer real brewed ice tea, which usually comes in a variety of flavors.

Sleep

If you enjoy the local traditions and charm, unhurried rhythm of living, small, family-run pensions are the best way to enrich your experience. Owners and personnel there are friendly and open-minded, compared to the impersonal service you normally encounter in large hotels.

If you have a bigger budget, renting a villa is a luxurious and splendid idea. They are normally near or on the beach and provide more space and a great view.

It should be noted that in Greece hotels, especially in the islands but also even in Athens and other big cities, tend to be simple establishments. Rooms are typically small, and bathrooms smaller, with the shower often a hand-held sprayer; if there is a bath-tub, it’s often a sit-bath. Sometimes in the most basic places shower curtains are lacking. Closets are often inadequate, and sometimes there is only a wardrobe. On the plus side, such hotels typically have a balcony (though sometimes tiny) or veranda, either private or a large one shared by all the rooms (but these are usually spacious enough not to feel cramped.) Standards of cleanliness are usually good, even in the simpler places. Those who want more luxurious accommodation can usually find it in cities and on the more popular islands but should check the hotel’s quality in reliable sources to be sure of what they’re getting.

Most Greek hotels now, even the smaller ones, have websites and will take bookings by email, though sometimes fax is a more reliable way to communicate. There are also numerous Greek and international hotel booking services which will make bookings, and sometimes these are cheaper, or have rooms available when the hotel itself says it’s sold out. If you’re not really particular about choosing a hotel, you can usually find a place on a walk-in basis without too much trouble on all but the most crowded islands, where rooms can be difficult to find at the peak of the season, and even in the shoulder season on weekends and major holidays. If you do get stuck for a room, try a local travel agency (preferably one endorsed by a reputable guidebook) or alternatively, ask at a cafe whether the owner knows of any rooms for rent; often they do.

On some islands, though this varies from place to place, the owners of accommodations will meet arriving ferries to offer rooms. Often they’ll have a van there to transport you from the port, and will have brochures to show you. These places are perfectly legitimate, they’re sometimes among the best value places. You can negotiate prices, especially when there are a lot of them trying to fill their rooms, and prices in the range of 20-25 EUR for a room or even a studio is not uncommon in mid-season. BUT they could be anywhere from a few steps away from the port to a mile out of town, so before accepting such an offer it’s best to be sure you get a good idea of its location.

Places listed in the guide books tend to be booked up in advance and usually get more expensive as soon as they know they are in there!

Greek rooms typically have air conditioning nowadays. If this is important to you, ask before booking. Some rooms in old traditional buildings with thick stone walls may not need it. Televisions are also common, though the picture may be too fuzzy to be much use, and if you get the set to work you may find it receives programs only in Greek. Room phones are rare in the less expensive places.

The main problem you’re likely to encounter with a Greek hotel room is noise. Anything on a road is likely to suffer from traffic noise, and even at hotels not on a major road you may find that that “footpath” outside is used as a superhighway by Greece’s notoriously loud motorbikes. And tavernas and clubs nearby can generate decibels. If you’re concerned about noise, it makes sense to choose your hotel’s location carefully. The quietest ones are likely to be in an old part of the town or village accessible only by stairs which counter the prevailing “if I can drive it there I will drive it there” car and motorbike philosophy.

In addition to hotels, almost every popular Greek destination offers self-catering accommodations called studios or sometimes apartments — the terms are pretty much interchangeable. Often these are run by hotels: a hotel may include some self-catering units, or the managers of a hotel may also run a separate building of self-catering apartments. Though not listed very often in travel guides, these studios are most certainly a viable option for many travelers. Typically, a studio consists of one large room, usually larger than a hotel room (though sometimes there are multiple rooms,) with a sink, small refrigerator, and two-burner hot-plate. They usually have a private balcony or veranda, a television, and air conditioning, though rarely a room phone and almost never internet access. In contrast to a hotel, they lack a front desk, there is no breakfast or other food service, and there may be maid service only once every two or three days. Studios are often in quieter and more scenic locations than hotels. For those who don’t require the full services of a hotel, studios can be an attractive alternative offering better accommodations for the money, and the chance to economize on food by preparing some meals yourself.

Learn

Students from EU countries may enter many sites for free. Students from other countries have their entrance fees reduced. So take your International Student Identity Card with you.

For those interested in learning modern Greek, there are several schools offering courses in language instruction for foreigners. Most of these are designed for English speakers, but some schools have courses for people with other first languages. Some schools are in Athens, some in Thessaloniki (among them the very good school of Modern Greek language in the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki) while others have centres in the islands offering a residential program that combines language study with a vacation. Some offer individual tutoring in addition to classes. Some well established programs are The Ikarian Centre [37], The Hellenic Culture Centre [38] (an associate of The Ikarian Centre,) and The Athens Centre [39].

Work

ERA and Swiss citizens can work without any restrictions in Greece.

Citizens of most non-EU countries are required to hold a visa to work in Greece. However, citizens of Antigua and Barbuda, the Bahamas, Barbados, Mauritius, Saint Kitts and Nevis and Seychelles are permitted to work in Greece without the need to obtain a visa or any further authorisation for the period of their 90 day visa-free stay – see the ‘Get in’ section above for more information.

Stay safe

Greece is a quite safe destination for the traveller: the vast majority of people you interact with will be honest and helpful. The detailed information below is intended to forewarn travelers of risks which they have a small, though not zero, chance of encountering.

Crime and theft

Violent crime and theft rates are very low; public disorder is rare, and public drunkenness is generally frowned upon. Visitors should rest assured that this is an extremely safe and friendly destination, but it is always advisable for foreign tourists to exercise basic precautionary measures just as they would at home. There has recently been a spike in theft (at least a perceived one), which some locals will not hesitate to blame on the influx of immigrants. Keep an eye on your belongings as pickpockets can be a significant problem especially in big, crowded cities such as Athens or Thessaloniki. Organized criminal activity exists in Greek metropolitan cities as well as in Crete but poses no risk to tourists.

The places where the visitor is most likely to encounter crime and theft are probably the handful of overcrowded, and overheated, tourist resorts thronged with younger foreigners attracted by cheap flights, cheap rooms, and cheap booze. The more notorious of such places include Faliraki in Rhodes, Kavos in Corfu, Malia (currently the “hottest” such destination) on Crete, and Ios (though this last is said to have quieted down a bit recently.) Most visitors to these places return home unmolested, but there have been increasing reports from them of theft, public indecency, sexual assault, and alcohol-fueled violence; both the perpetrators and victims are usually young foreigners, though sometimes locals are involved. Authorities have stepped up police presence in such areas to crack down on these activities. Still, visitors to these places would do well to avoid anything that looks like trouble, especially late at night, and to remember that their own overindulgence in alcohol increases their chance of attracting trouble themselves.

Scams

The most commonly reported major scam against travelers is the Greek version of the old clip joint routine. This is reported primarily from central Athens, but also occasionally from other cities and even the larger island towns. A single male traveler will be approached, usually at night in a neighborhood where there are a lot of bars, by a friendly Greek who will strike up a conversation leading to an invitation to go to “this really cool bar I know” for a drink. Once at the bar, they are joined by a couple of winsome ladies who immediately begin ordering drinks, often champagne, until, at the end of the evening, the mark is presented with an astronomical bill, payment of which is enforced by the sudden appearance of a pair of glowering thugs. The reason this scam works is because most Greeks have a tradition of being friendly to visitors, and almost all Greeks who strike up a conversation with you will have no ulterior motives. But if you’re a single male traveler approached by a Greek in the circumstances described above, it’s safest to politely but firmly decline any invitations.

Photography restrictions

It is strictly forbidden to take photos of military installations or other strategic locations. Authorities will take violations quite seriously. Obey signs prohibiting photography. In fact, it would be best not to take photographs of anything of military significance, including Greek navy ships, or of airports or any aircraft, even civilian ones: Greek authorities can be very sensitive about such things. Many museums prohibit photography without a permit; some prohibit only flash or tripod photography, and many ask visitors not to take photos of objects (statues, etc.) which include people standing by them, as this is considered disrespectful. Officials at museums will rush over to yell at you if they see a camera or even a cell phone in your hand.

Antiquities

Greece has a long history of dealing with the illegal export of antiquities, dating back to the Ottoman times. Even a young Greek child can narrate you the story of how Lord Elgin back in the early 19th century famously tore apart parts from the Acropolis, including the famous statue of the Caryatid, and took them all the way to Britain. Thus, Greece has very strict laws concerning the export of antiquities, which can include not only ancient objects but also coins, icons, folk art, and random pieces of stone from archeological sites. Before buying anything which could conceivably be considered an antiquity, you should become familiar with the current laws regarding what can be taken out of the country. Briefly, all objects made before 1830 are considered antiquities and are protected by the Ministry. Do not ever think to export or buy any piece of archeological value because it will be either be a fake or you will be arrested promptly at the airport for trafficking of goods of archeological value. Also keep in mind that the smuggling of antiquities is extremely frowned upon by the locals and can even gather mass media attention.

Drugs

Greece has some of the strictest, and most strictly enforced, drug laws in Europe, and tourists are not exempt. No matter what anyone tells you, it is most definitely not cool to do drugs in Greece, including marijuana. Furthermore, such a behavior is strongly rejected by locals and will almost certainly cause someone call the Police and have you arrested. Note that even a very small quantity is enough to get you in serious trouble as Greek law makes almost no distinction between use, possession, and trafficking. Don’t even think of offering even the smallest amount of drug to someone else. Undercover cops abound and once caught you are certain to being prosecuted with charges of drug dealing, leading to several years of imprisonment!

Traffic

The greatest danger to travelers in Greece is probably in the simple process of crossing the street: traffic can be bad even in smaller towns and horrendous in Athens and other Greek cities, and accident rates are high. Caution should be exercised by pedestrians, even when crossing on a pedestrian crossing. Don’t ever assume that just because there is a crossing the oncoming car is going to stop. Wait for them to slow down/stop and THEN start crossing. Many people are killed on Greek roads each year – a statistic that is one of the highest in the European Union. Most of this is attributed to aggressive driving habits. Drivers often weave between lane to lane of traffic to waste less time. Stay safe.

Weather and Earthquakes

Greek summers are notoriously hot and that’s true for the entire country. The atmosphere can become suffocating at times in big cities and inland areas where the heat is trapped between buildings or the sea breeze doesn’t reach. Make sure you stay adequately hydrated and always wear sunscreen in the beach as the sun can cause nasty burns if you aren’t careful. It is also recommended that you try to visit archaelogical sites before 11am and after 4-5pm as most of them unshielded from the blistering heat; there have been instances of tourists fainting in Ancient Olympia and Mycenae.

Greece, along with Italy and Iceland, are the most seismically active countries in Europe. The greek population is used to them so when they happen they stop for a moment and then continue on with what they were doing. However, tourists should not be terrified at the prospect of an earthquake as a largest part of them happens in the sea and are usually less than 2.5 – 3R magnitude and last no more than 2-3 seconds. Above 4R earthquakes do occasionally happen and above 5R are infrequent. Seismic activity above 6R is rare though and it is very unlikely that such a strong earthquake will happen when you visit. If an earthquake occurs try to stay calm and find shelter under a table. If the earthquake is strong exit the building just for precautionary measures after it stops (90% of all of the buildings in Greece are built to withstand strong earthquakes and the ones that are not are usually old, derelict buildings but it’s better to go out for a small period of time).

Stay healthy

Health care

Despite a loud call for health care reform from both the voters and the political establishment, the nation’s health care system has received very high marks from the World Health Organization (WHO), a branch of the UN. However, many citizens prefer private health care for longer-term hospital stays. Depending on the age and nature of a particular hospital or clinic, services range from adequate to excellent. Health care is free and universal for all citizens, as well as for all EU nationals upon presentation of an EHIC card (Formerly the E111 form). For non-EU nationals, only emergency care is provided for free.

A network of helicopter ambulances serves the islands, transporting patients who need immediate attention to the nearest island or city with a major hospital.

The country’s pharmacies and medications are of top quality, and pharmacists are highly trained experts in their field. Many medications that can only be acquired by prescription in the US and UK can be purchased without a prescription in Greece, and the prices are quite affordable even for European standards. When sick with a simple, common illness, a visit to the pharmacist will provide you with the medication you need. If you are looking for a specific medication, be sure to know its generic name, as brand names might be different. Most pharmacies close on Sundays, but a sign will be posted on the door indicating the nearest pharmacies that are open.

Healthcare provision is different to Anglosphere nations in that many specialists are in the community. GPs are replaced by community pathologists. Hotels and tourist agencies can provide advice on where to go if you are ill.

Sexually transmitted diseases

STDs exist in Greece as elsewhere, and travellers who may engage in sexual activity while visiting Greece should remember that even if one is on vacation and one’s sexual partner is also a traveler, perhaps from one’s own country, neither of these facts suspend the laws of biology. According to recent reports in the Greek and British media, unprotected sex among visitors to Greece, with a consequent rise in STIs and unplanned pregnancies, is especially common at the party resorts favored by younger people, such as Ios, Laganas, Malia, Kavos, and Faliraki. Condoms are available at any pharmacy and at many kiosks.

Natural Dangers

More than 250 people are drowned each summer in Greece while swimming, many of them being foreign visitors. Also many more suffered non reversable health issues due to “almost drown” incidents. Greece has the highest number of drownings in Europe. You need to never overestimate your physical strength when swimming. Before your visit search carefully the internet for all the measuares you shall take to avoid such situations in the sea or even the pools. The most common causes of drowning in Greece are swimming with a full belly and swimming too far from the coast. Make sure you wait at least 3 hours after eating before you go swimming and be extra careful in beaches that have strong winds, as you might be unable to return.

Sun and heat pose risks that summer visitors should take precautions for. Take a good, light sun hat and sun glasses, and drink plenty of water.

In late spring and summer, the government runs public service announcements on television reminding Greeks to wear their sunblock at the beach. The Mediterranean sun tends to get quite strong, and can burn skin that has not been exposed to the sun for a long time. Any excessive daily sun exposure can also cause long-term damage to skin. Sunblock and sunscreen are widely available throughout Greece at supermarkets, grocery stores, pharmacies, and special stores selling beach-related items, though they tend to be expensive, and the higher SPF factor blocks can be hard to find.

During the hottest months, while visiting archaeological sites, wear tank tops, carry umbrellas, and carry water. Daily high temperatures stay at about 95-100°F (35-38°C). The sun is merciless. In recent years Athens has been subject to periodic summer heat waves where the temperature can reach above 100°F (38°C), posing a risk of respiratory problems and heat stroke for some people. Be aware that many islands, especially in the Cyclades, have very little shade to ameliorate the summer heat; if hiking around such islands, including going by foot to distant beaches, it’s especially important in hot weather to wear a hat and sunscreen, to take water, and to avoid being caught walking during the hottest part of the day.

Jellyfish periodically infest some beaches and their stings can be severe, with the red ones being particularly dangerous. However, they rarely appear before August and they only infest particular places, so you should exercise caution only if a beach has a reputation of infestations. Many Greeks are considerate and make sure to warn fellow swimmers when they spot one, but if you swim in a place where jellyfish sightings are common you should check once in a while just in case. Sea urchins are common along the Greek coast, usually clinging to underwater flat surfaces such as smooth rocks and sea walls. They usually inhabit shallow water so they’re easy to see. Care should be taken not to step on them, since their spines can be painful. On the other side, spotting sea urchins in a beach is a good sign that the water is not polluted.

It’s inadvisable to go hiking cross country in Greece alone: even in popular places, the countryside can be surprisingly deserted, and if you get in trouble while you’re out of sight of any houses or roads, it could be a long time before anyone notices you. The Greek countryside especially in the south is hot and scarce in water and food. As a result you should always make sure to have sufficient supplies and know beforehand where you can find drinkable water.

Lifeguards are rare at Greek beaches, though most of them where people congregate to swim are locally considered safe. Some beaches have shallow water a long way from the shore; others suddenly shelve steeply. If in doubt about safe swimming conditions, ask locally.

There are no required inoculations for Greece and the water is almost everywhere safe (see above under Drink.) Look for ‘Blue Flags’ at beaches for the highest quality water (which tend to also have good sand and facilities)

Respect

While the proper etiquette in Greece is largely influenced by European standards, Greeks tend to rate politeness with a person’s behaviour and not their words. Furthermore, there is an air of informality; everybody is treated like a cousin. They use their hands to gesture a lot. Have fun with this. Sometimes over-emphasizing politeness in spoken language will only make the person dealing with you think you are pretentious. It’s nice to learn basic words like “thank you” (Ευχαριστώ: ef-khah-rees-TOH) or “please” (Παρακαλώ: pah-rah-kah-LOH).

Greeks generally consider it proper etiquette to let the stranger make the first move. You may find that on entering a cafe or passing a group on the street you feel that you’re being ignored, but if you take the initiative by saying hello first, you’re likely to find that people suddenly turn friendly.

Greeks take leisure very seriously; it is a work-to-live culture, not live-to-work. Don’t take perceived laziness or rudeness harshly. They do it to everyone, locals and tourists alike. Rather than fight it, just go along with it and laugh at the situation. It can be very frustrating at times but also appreciate their “enjoy life” attitude. They do take politics and football very seriously.

Dress codes for churches include covered shoulders for women and knees covered for both sexes. This tends to be lightly enforced during the height of the summer tourist season, simply due to sheer volume! In any case, appropriate clothing is usually available at the entrance of churces and monasteries, especially the ones receiving most tourist traffic. Just pick it up going in and drop it off on the way out.

Sensitive topics

There are some very sensitive topics in Greece that you should really be careful when talking with Greeks or not even mentioning at all.

• Greece is NOT Eastern Europe. Referring to Greece as an eastern european country may trigger an angry reaction from Greeks. Greece is Southern Europe like Italy, Spain, Portugal and it’s referred as a southern european country anyway by everyone alike. In addition, while Greece is situated on the southern tip of the Balkan Peninsula, Greeks don’t have particularly good views of the rest of the balkan countries as the country was the only democratic, capitalist country in a sea of communist, authoritarian nations and dictatorships during the Cold War and many natives will blame a rise in the crime rate to the influx of immigrants from the likes of Bulgaria, Romania, Albania, Serbia etc. So, refrain from calling Greece a balkan country.
• DON’T insult Ancient Greece or the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire. These two periods of history have been the ones that have defined the culture and identity of modern Greece and any insult towards them may not be taken lightly. Furthermore, DON’t even think of making any negative comment regarding ancient greek personages/heroes such as Alexander the Great, Leonidas, Hercules, Pericles, Achilles etc. and heroes of the Greek War of Indepedence such as Kolokotrinis or Bouboulina. Likewise be mindful about what you’re saying for the Orthodox Christian church; Greece is still one of the most religious countries in the EU and while young people probably won’t take bad comments to heart, adults and elders might.
• BE CAREFUL when referring to the Ottoman Empire and Turkey. Despite relations between the people of the two nations having excellent relations and a muslim minority leaving in western Thrace, don’t be surprised if you find Greek people considering Turkey a natural enemy of the country. The Ottoman Empire had the entirety of Greece subjugated for almost 400 years (from the Fall of Constantinople in 1453 to the Greek Revolution in 1821) and enforced very cruel methods and rules to do so. In more recent years, the Pontian Greek genocide during WW1 in 1915, the referred to by Greeks as the Near East Disaster (when 1 million Greeks from Izmir, Bursa and other coastal turkish cities were displaced by turkish forces from their homes and came as refugees in Greece), the attacks in businesses owned by the greeks of Istanbul in September 1955 and their subsequent displacement from the city in 1964, the invasion of Cyprus in 1974 and the Imia Crisis in 1999 are events that stigmatised Greco-Turkish relations in the 20th Century. While relations are better now diplomatic episodes between the two countries can happen and turkish leaders have launched offensive verbal attacks against Greece and the goverment more often than not. Most Greeks informally still refer to cities of Turkey by their historical Greek names (Constantinopole, Smyrna, Halicarnassus etc.) even when talking in English. While they don’t expect you to do the same, you are likely to encounter an absurdly positive reaction if you do so.
• DON’T TALK about the Macedonian Issue: The Macedonian Issue has stigmatised greek politics since 1992 and the dissolution of Yugoslavia. Minister after minister refused to accept the name “Macedonian Republic” supported by the neighbooring countries goverment as it is presumed as offensive to greek history and culture as well as the fact that most of northern Greece is called Macedonia. A deal was reached between the two sides in February 2019 but it’s highly controversial amongst the greek public opinion and polls show that at least 70% of the population reject it. The majority of Greeks will still refer to the country as “Skopia” (inspired by its capital Skopje) or “FYROM” (its former name) instead of the new one “North Macedonia”. Referring to the country as “Macedonia” will cause an angry reaction even from the most polite Greeks so be mindful of your words.

Rude gestures

To “swear” at someone using their hands, Greeks put out their entire hand, palm open, five fingers extended out, like signalling someone to stop. This is called “mountza“. Sometimes they will do this by saying “na” (here) or they will do this with both palms to emphasize and will say “na, malaka” (here, jerk) when the offense is more serious. It is basically telling someone to screw off or that they did something totally ridiculous. “Mountza” is known to come from a gesture used in the Byzantine era, where the guilty person were applied with ash on his/her face by the judge’s hand to be ridiculed. Be careful when refusing something in Greece: when refusing the offer of a drink, it’s best to put your palm over your glass (or any other refusing gesture that limits the showing of the palm). The ubiquitous middle finger salute will also be understood.

There is some regional variation on the use of the ‘okay’ sign (thumb and index finger in a circle, the 3 other fingers up), as is signalling to a waiter by miming signing a receipt.

Smoking

Greeks smoke quite a lot. While smoking is technically prohibited by law in all public places like restaurants and cafeterias since September 2010, however some establishments and most Greeks just ignore this, but nevertheless it is best to follow the smoking ban.

Remember that Greece is subject to frequent forest fires during the dry summer season, so definitely avoid smoking in forested areas!

Content copyleft courtesy of the awesome Wikitravel.