Cuba

Cuba is the largest Caribbean island, between the Caribbean Sea and the North Atlantic Ocean. It lies 145km (90 miles) south of Key West, Florida, between the Cayman Islands and the Bahamas, to the west of Haiti, east of Mexico and northwest of Jamaica.

Understand

Cuba became a U.S. protectorate in 1898 after American and Cuban forces defeated Spanish forces during the Spanish-American War. In 1902, the Platt Amendment ended the U.S. military occupation of Cuba, but the United States reserved the right to intervene in Cuban affairs in order to “defend Cuban independence and to maintain a government adequate for the protection of life, property, and individual liberty”. Between 1902 and 1959, many U.S. citizens lived in Cuba or frequently traveled to Cuba. The Cuban economy relied heavily on tourism from the U.S. and Canada. Havana had a large number of shows, events, and hotels catering to tourists.

Fulgencio Batista was the elected President of Cuba from 1940 to 1944, and U.S.-backed dictator from 1952 to 1959, before being overthrown during the Cuban Revolution. The Cuban Revolution (Spanish: Revolución cubana) was an armed revolt conducted by Fidel Castro’s 26th of July Movement and its allies against the right-wing dictatorship government of Fulgencio Batista. The revolution began in July 1953, and continued sporadically until the rebels finally ousted Batista on 1 January 1959.

The Cuban Revolution was a crucial turning point in U.S.-Cuban relations. Although the American government was initially willing to recognize Castro’s new government, it soon came to fear that Communist insurgencies would spread through the nations of Latin America, as they had in Southeast Asia. Castro, meanwhile, resented the Americans for providing aid to Batista’s government during the revolution. After the revolutionary government nationalized all U.S. property in Cuba in August 1960, the American Eisenhower administration froze all Cuban assets on American soil, severed diplomatic ties and tightened its embargo of Cuba.

President Dwight D. Eisenhower secretly began planning efforts to assassinate or overthrow Castro, such as the Bay of Pigs invasion, which eventually occurred during the administration of U.S. President John F. Kennedy. When Castro asked the U.S. for new armaments, President Eisenhower refused — keeping the arms embargo in place. In response, Castro began purchasing weapons from the Soviet Union.

In October, 1960, a private U.S. oil refinery in Cuba refused to refine a shipment of Soviet crude oil. In response, Castro nationalized all oil refineries in Cuba, without compensating the owners. Private U.S. companies had owned all of the refineries at the time. In the ensuing months, the U.S. incrementally expanded its embargo, and Castro incrementally nationalized more U.S. companies. Ultimately, President Kennedy added travel restrictions, which remained wholly in place until 2016.

After 1959, Cuban tourism diminished drastically and was mostly for people within the Soviet block. As a result, Cuba did not renew many facilities until the 1990s, when Cuba lost financial backing from the defunct Soviet Union, when Cuba opened its doors to foreign tourism and the possession of foreign currency. Now many European, Canadian, and even American visitors come to the island. In the typical tourist regions like Varadero and Holguín many modern 3-star to 5-star hotels are available, while in less popular tourist regions visitors are still able to rent rooms in many Cuban homes (called casas particulares).

Travel to Cuba for tourist activities remains prohibited for U.S. citizens. However, in March, 2016 The Obama administration issued general licenses for 12 categories of travel. Individuals who meet the regulatory conditions of the general license they seek to travel under do not need to apply for an additional license from OFAC to travel to Cuba. The 12 categories of authorized travel to Cuba are: family visits; official business of the U.S. government, foreign governments, and certain intergovernmental organizations; journalistic activity; professional research and professional meetings; educational activities; religious activities; public performances, clinics, workshops, athletic and other competitions, and exhibitions; support for the Cuban people; humanitarian projects; activities of private foundations or research or educational institutes; exportation, importation, or transmission of information or informational materials; and certain authorized export transactions.

Due to several long-standing factors (e.g. U.S. embargo against Cuba, bureaucratic ineffectiveness, and the loss of Soviet subsidies), today much of the country’s infrastructure is desperately in need of repair. Major tourist destinations have no problems with power or water. Electricity outages have been common in Cuba, except in tourist facilities. Since 2006 was designated the Year of the Energy Revolution in Cuba, Cubans have installed many small generators to avoid blackouts. Since Venezuela began providing Cuba with cheap oil and Cuba restarted the refinery in Cienfuegos, the energy situation has improved. Many tourist accommodations offer 220V as well as 110V power sources. This is adequate for your power needs and should be enough to accommodate anything you plug in, at least to a reasonable limit.

Regions

Cities

• Havana – cosmopolitan capital with a swinging nightlife
• Baracoa – a quaint beach-side town, and Cuba’s first capital.

• Pinar del Rio – centre of the cigar industry

• Santa Clara – Home of Ernesto “Che” Guevara’s most successful battle during the Revolution. A mausoleum is erected on the outskirts of town and now holds his remains, recovered from Bolivia in the 1990s.

• Santiago de Cuba – coastal city rich in Caribbean influence

• Trinidad – World Heritage Site with charming, colonial-era buildings

• Varadero – popular beach area, east of Havana, filled mostly with tourists.

Other destinations

Varadero beach, Cuba

Trinidad de Cuba

• Cayo Largo – a small island with nudist facilities

• Isla de la Juventud – a large island south of Havana

• Jardines del Rey – an island chain of beach resorts including Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo

• Maria la Gorda – a tiny village with some snorkelling and diving options

• Varadero Beach – 20-kilometre-long beach of fine white sand and waters

Parks

• Viñales – A national park in Pinar del Rio province, with mountains and caves. It has the best-developed tourist facilities of Cuba’s national parks.
• Parque Nacional La Güira (La Güira National Park) – Another national park in Pinar del Rio province, with mountains and caves, but without many tourist facilities.

• Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra del Rosario – A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Sierra del Rosario mountains of Pinar del Rio province. The principal sites are Soroa and Las Terazzas.

• Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata (Ciénaga de Zapata National Park) – A national park in Mantanzas province, similar to Florida’s Everglades National Park, with vast swamps and world-famous birdwatching, scuba diving, and beaches; and the site of the 1961 American Bay of Pigs invasion.

• Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes (Topes de Collantes National Park) – A national park in the Sierra del Emcambray mountains, straddling Cienfuegos, Villa Clara, and Sancti Spiritus provinces.

• Parque Allejandro de Humboldt (Guantanamo province) approx 40km from baracoa, offers walking, and conservation movements

Get in

For information specific to US/American Samoan citizens see Americans in Cuba

A tourist visa card (visa de tarjeta del turista) is a requirement for travelers from most nations.

Visa-free

Citizens of Benin, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, Malaysia, Montenegro, and Serbia can visit visa-free for up to 90 days. Citizens of Grenada and Saint Vincent and the Grenadines can visit visa-free for up to 60 days. Citizens of Antigua and Barbuda, Belarus, Mongolia, Russia, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Singapore, Armenia and Saint Lucia can visit visa-free for up to 30 days. Citizens of Barbados and Dominica can visit visa-free for up to 28 days.

Visa and legal issues

Generally, an investigation is not required to grant a tourist visa and most airlines even distribute them at check-in or at the gate. Contact your airline and ask. If flying from Cancun, they will not let you on the plane without one and it costs $300 MXN or $25 USD.

Passengers from Canada get a tourist card on board the aircraft, which is included in the airfare.

The penalties imposed by Cuba on airlines bringing in undocumented travelers can be quite severe. If you run into this problem, it is likely that you will forfeit your airfare, as you did not ensure you would be able to enter the country before asking the carrier to bring you to Cuba.

Visa costs are routinely included in flights from Canada, with tourist visas delivered before landing. Visa cards can be purchased at Cancún, El Dorado, and many other gateway airports. However, please check on the availability of visas in your home country before your flight. In many places, they can be purchased in the airport or from an agent designated by the airline that enters Cuba. Generally, they can be purchased at both Central American and South American airports, but not at most European airports (Zurich being one exception). According to Cuban Embassy in The Netherlands, from 2017 visas can be purchased at Schiphol (Amsterdam) airport over TUI, Neckermann and Thomas Cook travel agencies.

The tourist visa is valid for 30 days, and can be renewed for another 30. However, Canadians are granted 90-day visas renewable for another 90 days. The fee for renewing the tourist visa is CUC25. It’s not renewable after the first extension — at 60 days, you must leave the country (in the case of Canadians, 180 days, etc.). Tourists can leave Cuba and return immediately for a further 60 days, but they then face a barrier to re-entry if they attempt to stay more than 120 days (one entry, one extension, brief departure, one entry, one extension = 120 days).

Your passport must be valid for at least 60 days after departure from Cuba in the case of some nations (EU countries, incl UK, US) and 6 months for others. Since it’s possible for a visitor to renew a visa for 120 days, it seems exceptionally unwise to have a passport that expires within six months of your departure to Cuba.

Entry requirements for Cuba can be a bit daunting. If you are an expatriate from your country of birth, you must have your adopted country’s passport or, if you do not have citizenship in your current home country, you must be able to prove your residency in the country where you live and work. Documentation is absolutely vital — documenting that you are on a valid visa to the country of origin, documenting your true residency in that country, documenting your intent to return to that country. A letter from your employer on company letterhead documenting your job, the length of your holiday from this job, and your clear intent to return to that employment has been helpful for other travelers. There have been cases of people being denied exit as well as entry because security did not believe that they were returning to a country where they had a clear affiliation. There have also been cases of travelers being asked to telephone their employers to prove their story. It’s best to be able to document your circumstances very fully. Having a comprehensive itinerary, with confirmations of hotel reservations and the like, is also prudent.

If you are entering Cuba to visit relatives, it’s advisable to enter on a tourist visa, and then convert within 24 hours at the local immigration office. For the family visa, you must appear at the immigration office with the owner of the property. It is illegal for non-Cubans to stay in the homes of Cubans, but rather they must stay in a casa particular or a hotel. To convert to a family visa was, at last report, a fee of CUC40. The family visa is valid for 60 days from time of entry, and can be renewed twice more, for a total of 180 days spent in Cuba.

Americans in Cuba

US Citizens may only visit Cuba for one of the 12 reasons that OFAC has designated. One of those reasons is “people to people” tours. The idea is that you are not only visiting Cuba but there is an inter-cultural exchange happening between the visitor and the Cuban nationals. Few US companies have approved people-to-people tours available to legally take the US citizen. Be careful who you travel with because the company does not have the burden of proof — the visitor does.

2017 UPDATE: As of June 2017, Donald Trump announced changes in travel rules for Cuba. You can no longer travel under the People to People category as an individual, and you can’t spend money at military-owned businesses. However traveling independently under 11 other categories, including Support for the Cuban People is still allowed.

Companies Who Offer People to People Tours

• InsightCuba, ☎ 800-450-2822, [1]. InsightCuba is a tour operator specializing solely in legal people-to-people travel to Cuba for Americans. This tour offers in-country knowledge and expertise that is unmatched in the industry, providing travelers with once-in-a-lifetime experiences.  edit

• Sea Kayak Adventures, ☎ 1-800-616-1943, [2]. Offers kayak tours that are legal for the American traveler to Cuba. Two tours. A western kayak tour and an eastern kayak tour.  edit

• Cuba Unbound, ☎ 1-800-624-0482, [3]. Offers a variety of tours that include: biking, hiking, walking, photography, national parks, kayaking and a classic car tour.  edit

• Cuba Aventuras, [4]. A destination management company (DMC) located in Havana that helps US based tour operators develop and guide people-to-people tours.  edit

• Cuba Mania Tour, ☎ +53 58264510, [5]. Offers Classic Car Tours in Havana, Dance lessons, Music Lessons, Bike Rentals. Allows you to book a classic convertible or sedan by the hour. $35-$100.  edit

Cuban born

To enter Cuba, Cuban citizens residing permanently in another country require a current Cuban passport with the appropriate authorization. This authorization is known as “Habilitación” of the passport. To obtain this authorization the Cuban citizen must be recognised a migrant by the Cuban government.

Most people born in Cuba who are citizens of other countries still need a current authorized Cuban passport to enter Cuba. The Cuban government does not recognize citizenships that might have been acquired by anyone born in Cuba. This means that all those born in Cuba are considered to be Cuban citizens even if they have a different citizenship.

An exception to this rule is Cubans born in Cuba who migrated from Cuba before the 1st of January 1971. In this case they can enter Cuba with a non-Cuban passport and the appropriate visa. However, it should be noted that some consulates are known to disregard this exception and force travelers to acquire a Cuban passport at a significant cost.

For more information see the Cuban government’s web page “Nación y Immigración” (in Spanish)”:

By plane

Havana

Jose Martí International Airport outside Havana is the main gateway into Cuba and is served by major airlines from points in the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe. There are also regional flights from other Caribbean islands. Cuba’s national carrier is Cubana de Aviacion, connecting the island to a handful of destinations in Mexico, South and Central America, Canada and Europe.

US travelers are seeing more and more airlines offering regularly scheduled flights to many cities in Cuba. There are daily flights from Atlanta, Miami, New York, and many other US airline hubs. You can also legally fly through Mexico City or Canada. Although it sounds sketchy – it is completely legal.

An official taxi to Havana central costs CUC25 but you can find cheaper, illegal ones. The cost is roughly CUC1 per kilometre.

There is a new bus service from the Terminal One (domestic flights) to La Habana Centro. So if you arrive in Cuba before 20:00 you can ask the taxi driver to bring you there and wait for the bus (CUC1 for the taxi and a few cents for the bus). For the more adventurous, or for those wishing to save some money, public buses run late into the evening along Avenida Rancho Boyeros, just a block from Terminal II. While taking the bus will cost a mere few pennies, they are often jam-packed with passengers, consequently, if you are carrying more than a mid-size backpack or small carry-on piece of luggage, you may not, literally, be able to squeeze-in. If you choose this option, be aware, as of December 2016, buses and bus stops do not have bus maps. In other words, you will need to come prepared with your own map; a solid sense of direction, and some ability to speak Spanish.

Your checked luggage, though, is at great risk. It is increasingly common for your luggage to be opened and anything of value removed. This used to be a problem at Jose Marti International (Havana) only, now it seems to have spread to all airports. Packing valuables in checked luggage is extremely risky – if not foolish.

While on the subject of luggage, lost or delayed luggage at Jose Marti International (Havana) is directed, at least at the International Terminal, to a lost and found area.If, for some reason, you are directed to the lost and found area, if at all possible, bring your baggage claim tag or number. Be prepared to be greeted by a crowd of people around the gate as staff do not enforce the creation of a queue (line). When you arrive at lost and found, check with those who arrived before you. Often, they may have insights into approximate wait times etc.. Speaking of wait times, as of December 2016, wait times can be as long as seven hours, or longer! Your wait time will dependent upon what time of day you arrive (late night/early mornings tend to have shorter wait times) as well as what time of the week you arrive. If you are unable to make any progress, you may also demand, if at all possible, that your airline take lead on escorting you though the gated lost and found entry point. For a number of guests, this option proved successful.

Please note that if you have purchased a oneworld ticket then further flights into America within that year will be disallowed through American Airlines.

Santiago de Cuba

While Havana, is by far the most popular port of entry, there are also flights available to Antonio Maceo Airport from some of Cuba’s nearest Caribbean neighbors, Jamaica, and Haiti and also from more distant locations, such as Miami, Toronto, Madrid & Paris. Santiago de Cuba is connected with the rest of Cuba by road and rail connections.

Other destinations

There are also regular holiday charter flights to resorts such as Varadero and to the eastern city of Holguin (Condor fly here from Frankfurt), and these can sometimes be less expensive than those going to Havana.

The airports are all fully-air-conditioned and quite modern, compared to other destinations in the Caribbean, offer good medical care in case of problems, and are usually relatively hassle free.

By boat

There are no regular ferries or boats to Cuba from foreign ports, although some cruise liners do visit. Yachters are expected to anchor at the public marinas. Most ports are closed and tourists are not permitted to walk around them. Private vessels may enter at Marina Hemingway in Havana or Marina Acua in Varadero. There are no visa requirements. Expect to hand out several USD10 bills to facilitate your entry.

Get around

By bus

Buses in Cuba are called “guaguas” like in other areas of the Caribbean, it is pronounced “GUAHguah” with the g sounding like in gate, not like in George. Other Spanish words like bus and colectivos will not be understood by many Cubans. This name applies to any bus from a local bus “guagua local” to a bigger, fancier tourist bus “guagua de turismo”.

Víazul [8] is Cuba’s hard currency bus line and is by far the best choice of public transportation to tour the island. They run comfortable air-conditioned long-distance coaches with washrooms and televisions to most places of interest to tourists. The buses are getting a bit grubby, but they are reliable and punctual. Complete schedules can be found on the Viazul website (the Varadero – Santa Clara – Cienfuegos – Trinidad and return service is missing from the website but runs daily). The buses can be used theoretically by anyone, including Cubans, but in reality, few Cubans can afford the convertible peso fares. Reservations can be made in advance, but are usually unnecessary except at peak travel times. In December/January 2017/18, most popular bus routes were booked out up to 4 days in advance so get in early if planning to travel during this period. You can buy tickets online via Viazul website but beware that in reality sales go through Spanish agency, what sometimes leads to online tickets being “lost” and not propagated to Viazul system (e.g. Varadero – Havana, Havana – Viñales routes). Refreshments are not served, despite what the website says, but the buses stop for meal breaks at highway restaurants with bad food (Bring your own food!). The buses are often over air conditioned, so bring along something warm to wear. Note that most westbound buses from Santiago de Cuba run overnight. Depending on location, you have to show up from 30 to 60 minutes before the bus departure for check in.

Astro is the bus line that most Cubans use. Astro recently renewed their fleet with 300 new Chinese coaches that are as comfortable as Viazul (without the washroom). Although the new buses have proven to be unreliable and often break down, they are still better than the old buses that Astro used to run. Astro has a much more extensive network than Viazul, and contrary to popular belief depending upon the vendor and your ability to speak Spanish, especially if your destination is not covered by Viazul, it is possible to purchase tickets.

In La Habana routes are covered by newer YuTong Chinese buses throughout the city, and are a welcome respite from the extortionate taxi fares. Each fare costs 0.40 CUP however far one travels. This is particularly useful in getting to the airport, where the official rate is 20-25 CUC from Centro or Vieja via taxi (although patient bargaining can lower this to 15 CUC); any bus to Santiago de Las Vegas such as P-2, P-12 and P-16, which run from Parque Fraternidad next to the Capitolio and anywhere along Avendida de la Independencia, can take you near the airport to Boyeros (again for 0.40 CUP or 0.02 CUC, a thousandth of what you’d pay for a taxi). From Boyeros outside the Psychiatric Hospital, or a few stops before, or one after, one can walk, flag a taxi down, or if going to Terminal 3 take the ‘Connexions’ bus. People will be helpful when asking for advice about this whilst on the bus, even without Spanish skills. To reiterate at the time of writing this option will cost you from 0.02GBP as opposed to 20GBP. If you are carrying more than a small back pack or carry-on luggage, they bus may not be the best option. Often, buses are jam-packed with no space to spare.

There are also local provincial buses, consisting of overcrowded old beat-up eastern European buses that may or may not be running but they are very very cheap. Each town will have a “terminal” where buses or trucks (large pre 1960s vehicles) serve local destinations and usually neighbouring provinces (for example from Santiago you can get to Bayamo or Guantanamo). They are usually quite easy to find – in La Habana it is found in the Lido, in the Marianao (the P-9, P-5 or P-14 will get you close), whilst in Santiago it is found on Calle 4 (along from La Plaza de la Revolucion).

It is important to note that queues will be lengthy (it is best to arrive in the early hours of the morning, or alternatively give the chauffeur a tip to allow you to jump the queue) and you should always say that you are a student, as tourists are theoretically forbidden from using this transport. You may occasionally need to pay a little extra by virtue of being a tourist, but this should never be more than 1-2 CUC for long journeys (as opposed to 5-10 CUP for locals).

It is also possible to travel between some popular tourist destinations, such as Havana and Varadero, on special tourist minibuses carrying 4-5 people. The cost is a few dollars more but highly recommended if you are not planning to sleep the whole distance – plus you can ask the driver to stop along the way!

Alternatively there are some guaguas which might actually be cheaper than the official bus. The advantages of these colectivos is that they bring you exactly where you want, they can be cheaper and they run and stop for a snack when you want them to. Example Santa Clara – La Habana: Viazul costs 18 CUC and leave at 3:15AM and 5PM, the collectivo costs 40 – 50 CUC (if you fill it up with 4 people it is 10 to 12 CUC each or alternatively you can wait for the driver to look for other passengers). While this transport (like many things in Cuba!) is illegal in theory, remember that the money goes directly to the owner (as opposed to the Cuban government) and the chances of any problems are minimal.

By taxi

Official taxis are pretty expensive for long distances. Between Havana and Viñales, for example, will run about CUC 90-100, although this can work out cheaper than traveling by bus or train if you split the fare between several people. Some recent (Jan 2016) fares include 120 CUC for 4 pax Havana-Trinidad, 50 CUC for 4 pax Santa Clara-Matanzas (this will be more or less depending on your luck, bargaining skills, and willingness to wait for another taxi). If you’re up for a little adventure, you can find some enterprising locals willing to (illegally) play “taxi” with their old car for a little less money. Be aware that if they get caught, you will have to get out of the car. Although you will not be in any trouble with the authorities, you may find yourself in the middle of nowhere with no transportation.

Taxis are the most convenient way to get around within the big cities. There are several types of taxis, including the official government taxis, the private and potentially unlicensed “yank tanks”, and the small three-wheeled coco-taxis. They’re fairly abundant and not hard to find – they tend to group in front of large hotels, but it will usually be cheaper to find one elsewhere.

Be warned, most do not have seat belts, and the breaks can be slow due to the age of the car.

By car

You will find an unusually large number of old U.S.-made cars on the street. Popularly known as “Yank Tanks,” these are pre-revolution imports from the 1950s that have been nursed along for half a century, because the Soviet-made cars available during the Cold War were too scarcely allocated for most Cubans to buy (and other cars remain too expensive today).

In Cuba, all vehicles drive on the right hand side of the road.

1950’s Chevrolet in Camagüey Cuba

Car rental starts from CUC 65 per day (including insurance) plus the cost of a full tank of gasoline. The refundable deposits start around CUC 200. Rental cars are for the most part fairly new, imported European or Asian models. Any traffic tickets received are noted on a rental car sheet and are deducted from your rental deposit. Note that if you are involved in a serious traffic accident involving injury or death, you will be detained in Cuba until the legal process sorts things out, which can take from several months to a year. For this reason, many countries advise their citizens not to rent cars in Cuba.

Scams in car rental offices seem to become common, although it is by no means ubiquitous. The deceit exploits your desire to be safe and have a full-cover insurance. Check the Scams section for details. Keep in mind that some suspicious things are OK — for instance, the deposit (usually around 200-300 CUC) is almost always paid in cash. Just make sure you get a receipt.

Busier roads and city streets are generally of fair (drivable) quality and should not pose much trouble if due care is exercised, however some quiet rural roads are in need of serious repair.

Generally traffic is light, especially away from Havana. Outside of towns and cities traffic is usually very light, with no cars for miles on some rural roads. Be warned – you also share the highways with local salespeople selling cheese, snacks and onions (!), cyclists (sometimes going the wrong way, and at night usually without lights) and horse-drawn vehicles. Also note that the Autopista (the main highway running down the center of the country) is crossed at occasional intervals by railway tracks – take care to slow down before going over to avoid damage to the tires or suspension. Many of these have a stop sign (“PARE” in Spanish) which you should carefully heed – or risk a fine of CUC 30, even if no train is coming.

Roads are poorly signposted (and frequently not at all), so if you do plan to do serious driving, it would be well-advised to download maps on your phone in advance and make sure your GPS works. It may also help to get a detailed printed map and ask for directions when not sure, in particular as some roads in the countryside are of very poor quality and Google Maps does not indicate road quality and it may be wildly optimistic in driving time. Be especially careful in the mountains, as some roads can be dangerous if you are not an experienced 4×4 off-roads driver, and they may even be entirely impassible after heavy rains.

Be aware that many traffic lights, especially in cities, are placed on the -far- corner of the intersection, unlike Europe (where the light is where you stop) or the US (where the light is in the middle of the intersection). It is probably obvious that you should not stop in the middle of an intersection, but just keep your wits about you!

Expect to encounter checkpoints when traveling in the interior of the country, typically at intersections between two major roads, but not always. The speeds are clearly indicated and usually require you to slow down to 40. Respect the speed limits or get fined 10 CUC!

As of January 2018, gasoline costs around 1.20 CUC for a liter of special (94 octane). Tourist rental cars are required to use 94 octane fuel.

Hitchhiking and the “Amarillo”

The Cuban government’s system for facilitating hitchhiking is by far the most economical way for foreigners to travel in Cuba, though a flexible schedule and good Spanish are a must. Known as “El Amarillo” (“the yellow guy”) for the yellowy-beige uniforms of its administrators, the system consists of points along main routes where certain vehicles are required to stop and pick up hitchhikers. Amarillo points (“el punto amarillo”) along major highways are often full service rest stops for hitchhikers, with water, peso-priced food, and a 24 hour indoor waiting area.

Hitchhiking is the only system where you can travel for Cuban prices without paying a tourist premium. Given that transportation is one of a tourist’s biggest expenses in Cuba, this can make your money go much further. Tell folks you’re a student (not a tourist) to avoid funny looks and price gouging.

To use the system within cities, just keep your eyes peeled for a man or woman in a yellow / beige uniform standing along the road near a line of people. Tell the official where you need to go, and wait. To travel long distances, you need to get to the “punto amarillo” on the edge of the city in the direction you’re going. Ask a local for help on the best way to do that. Then as you pass through cities, ask what bus or taxi to take to get to the “punto amarillo” on the outgoing road at the opposite extreme of the city. This can be tricky, and it’s often worth it to take a local taxi. If you can find a Cuban to accompany you on your journey, their help will be invaluable.

In daytime hours, when the amarillo is present, you pay a nominal amount of money (approx. 20 pesos from one city to the next) to the official when you find a ride. The money all goes to the government; drivers don’t get any. As a result, it’s much easier to travel long distances at night, when the amarillo has gone home and drivers can make some money picking up hitchhikers.

Of course, it’s always possible to hitchhike just by sticking out your thumb to passing cars, but be prepared to give the driver 20-50 pesos for a long ride.

Most of the rides you get will be in the back of large trucks, open to the weather. This is an exciting and beautiful way to travel the Cuban countryside. Though an accident would obviously be very dangerous for passengers, school kids, older adults, and parents with small children use this system every day. Make sure to bring protection against sun and rain and, if traveling at night, wind and cold.

By train

The main train line in the country runs between Havana and Santiago de Cuba, with major stops at Santa Clara and Camagüey. Trains also run to other cities such as Cienfuegos, Manzanillo, Morón, Sancti Spiritus, and Pinar del Rio.

There is one reliable train in Cuba: the overnight Tren Francés between Havana and Santiago de Cuba, which runs on alternate days. It uses equipment that was formerly operated on the Trans-Europe Express, and donated to Cuba by France a few years ago (hence the name). There are first class and special first class seats on this train (the special seats are better and more expensive), but no sleepers. If only one train in Cuba is running, this will be it.

All other trains in Cuba are unreliable. The equipment is often in poor condition, breakdowns are common, and when they occur, you can be stuck for the better part of the day (or night) waiting for a replacement engine. There are no services on the trains, so bring plenty of food and water with you. Trains are frequently cancelled. Some trains offer first class seats (don’t expect too much); others have second class seats, which can be very uncomfortable. Schedules are at best optimistic and should always be checked in advance of travel. There are no sleepers on overnight routes.

If you are still thinking of taking a train, other than the Tren Francés, you should know that many Cubans prefer to hitchhike than take the train.

If you are still determined to take a train, approximate schedules are given under the different city descriptions. Foreigners must pay much higher fares (which is still very cheap) than the locals. Tickets are roughly two-thirds what Viazul charges. Theft is a problem so watch your luggage!

The following services can be expected to run (special first class: air-conditioned, reservation required, meals and drinks available; regular first class: more comfortable seats, otherwise like second class):

• 1/2, every third day, Habana Central – Santiago de Cuba, “Tren Francés”, train, first class
• 3/4, every third day, Habana Central – Guantánamo, train, second class
• 5/6, every third day, Habana Central – Santiago de Cuba, train, second class
• 7/8, every third day, Habana Central – Bayamo, train, second class, continues as 28/29
• 9/10, every second day, Habana Central – Sancti Spiritus, “El Espirituano”, train, second class
• 11/12, two per week, Santa Clara – Santiago de Cuba, train, second class
• 19/20, every second day, Habana La Coubre – Cienfuegos, second class
• 28/29, every third day, Bayamo – Manzanillo, train, second class, continues as 7/8
• 83/84, daily, Camagüey – Bayamo, train, second class
• 88/89, every second day, Guantánamo – Holguin, train, second class
• 90/91/92/93/800/801/802/803/804/805, daily, Matanzas – Habana Casa Blanca, Hershey railbus
• 119/120, daily, Habana La Coubre – Unión de Reyes, train, second class
• 133/134, daily, Matanzas – Agramonte, train, second class
• 139/140/141/142/143/144, Habana 19 de Noviembre – San Antonio de los Baños
• 159/160/161/162, daily, Cárdenas – Aguada de Pasajeros, railbus, second class
• 163/164, daily, Colón – Aguada de Pasajeros, railbus, second class
• 165/166, daily, Los Palacios – Guane, train, second class
• 168/169, daily, Guane – Pinar del Rio, train, second class
• 213/214/215/216, Artemisa – Habana 19 de Noviembre
• 224/225, every second day, Pinar del Rio – Habana Central, “El Lechero”, second class
• 331/332, six per week, Cienfuegos – Santa Clara, train, second class
• 333/334, five per week, Cienfuegos – Sto Domingo Viejo, train, second class
• 337/338/339/340, daily, Santa Clara – Caibarién, railbus, second class
• 341/342/344, daily, Sagua – Santa Clara, railbus, second class
• 343, daily, Concha – Santa Clara, railbus, second class
• 345/346, daily, Sagua – Caibarién, railbus, second class
• 347/349/350/351/352, daily, Sagua – Concha, railbus, second class
• 353/354/355/356, daily, Santa Clara – Vega Alta, railbus, second class
• 357/358/359/360, daily, Zaza del Medio – Tunas de Zaza, train, second class
• 361/362/363/364, daily, Placetas Norte – Sopimpa, railbus, second class
• 365/366/367/368/369/370/371/372, daily, Trinidad – Meyer, railbus, second class
• 373/374, daily, Trinidad – Enlace Central FNTA Iznaga, “Expreso”, railbus, second class
• 379/380, daily, Aguada de Pasajeros – Cienfuegos, second class
• 501/502/503/504, daily, Morón – Camagüey, railbus, first class
• 505/516, daily, Morón – Júcaro, railbus, second class
• 506/511/512/515, daily, Júcaro – Ciego de Avila, railbus, second class
• 507/508/509/510/513/514, daily, Morón – Ciego de Avila, train, second class
• 519/520/521/522/523/524, daily, Fallá – Morón, railbus, second class
• 525/526, daily, Morón – Ciego de Avila, railbus, second class
• 532/533/534/535, daily, Nuevitas – Camagüey, train, second class
• 536/537/538/539/540/541, daily, Nuevitas – Tarafa, railbus, second class
• 542/543/544/545, daily, Santa Cruz del Sur – Camagüey, railbus, second class
• 546/547/548/549/550/551/552/553/554/555, daily, Las Tunas – Balcón, railbus, second class
• 557/558/559/560/561/562/563/564/565/566/567/568, daily, Piedrecitas – Kilómetro 5.6, railbus, second class
• 608/609, daily, Santiago de Cuba – Manzanillo, train, second class
• 610/611, every second day, Santiago de Cuba – Holguin, train, second class
• 613/614, daily, Herrera – Santiago de Cuba, train, second class
• 615/616, daily, Holguin – Herrera, train, second class
• 617, daily, Bayamo – Jiguani, train, second class
• 618/619/620, daily, Jiguani – Manzanillo, train, second class
• 621, daily, Manzanillo – Bayamo, train, second class
• 622/623/624/625, daily, Bayamo – Guamo, train, second class
• 626/630, daily, Contramaestre – Jiguani, railbus, second class
• 627/631, daily, Jiguani – Oriente, railbus, second class
• 628/632, daily, Oriente – Contramaestre, railbus, second class
• 633/634, daily, Contramaestre – Santiago de Cuba, railbus, second class
• 712/713/714/715, daily, Guantánamo – Martires de la Frontera, railbus, second class
• 716/717/718/719/720/721, every second day, Guantánamo – San Anselmo, railbus, second class
• 722/723, daily, Guantánamo – Yayal, railbus, second class
• 726/727/730/731/732/733, daily, Guantánamo – Caimanera, railbus, second class
• 807/809/853/870/872, daily, Talleres Calle 7 – Canasi, Hershey railbus
• 810/811/812/813/814/815/816/817/818/819/820/821/822/823/824/825/826/827/828/829/830/831, daily, Jaruco – Talleres Calle 7, Hershey railbus
• 832/833/836/837/842/843/846/847, daily, Caraballo – San Mateo, Hershey railbus
• 834/835, daily, Caraballo – Playas del Este, Hershey railbus
• 838/839/844/845/848/849/850/851, daily, Caraballo – Hershey, Hershey railbus
• 840/841, daily, Caraballo – Talleres Calle 7, Hershey railbus
• 852/854/855/865/866, daily, Canasi – Santa Cruz del Norte, Hershey railbus
• 856/857/868, daily, Santa Cruz del Norte – Talleres Calle 7, Hershey railbus
• 858/859/860/861, daily, Santa Cruz del Norte – Jibacoa, Hershey railbus
• 862/863, daily, Santa Cruz del Norte – Hershey, Hershey railbus
• 864/867, daily, Canasi – Hershey, Hershey railbus
• 876/881/882/883, daily during summer, Playas del Este – Habana La Coubre, Hershey railbus

The following services may run (all daily, second class):

• 86/87, Holguin – Las Tunas, train
• 117/118, Matanzas – Los Arabos Nuevo, train
• 335/336, Los Arabos Nuevo – Santa Clara, train
• 569/570, Camagüey – Talleres, train
• 572/573, Las Tunas – Camagüey, railbus

By plane

The fastest and most comfortable way to cover larger distances in Cuba is on either of the Cuban airlines, Cubana de Aviación [9], Aero Caribbean [10] or Aerogaviota [11]. They operate on the following routes:

Cubana de Aviación

• Havana – Camaguey – Havana, Yakovlev Yak-42D
• Havana – Santiago – Havana, Yakovlev Yak-42D

Operated by Aero Caribbean

• Havana – Camaguey – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Guantánamo – Havana, ATR 42-300/320

Aero Caribbean

• Havana – Baracoa – Havana, ATR 72-212
• Havana – Bayamo – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Cayo Coco – Cienfuegos – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Cayo Largo del Sur – Varadero – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Cienfuegos – Cayo Coco – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Las Tunas – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Manzanillo – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Moa – Holguin – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Nueva Gerona – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Santiago – Havana, ATR 42-300/320
• Havana – Varadero – Cayo Largo del Sur – Havana, ATR 42-300/320

Operated by Global Air (Mexico)

• Havana – Cayo Coco – Holguin – Havana, Boeing 737-200
• Havana – Holguin – Cayo Coco – Havana, Boeing 737-200
• Havana – Santiago – Havana, Boeing 737-200

Aerogaviota

• Havana – Kingston, Jamaica – Havana
• Havana – Cayo Las Brujas – Havana

• Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Baracoa – Playa Baracoa (Havana)
• Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Cayo Coco – Playa Baracoa (Havana)
• Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Cayo Largo del Sur – Playa Baracoa (Havana)
• Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Holguin – Playa Baracoa (Havana)
• Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Cayo Las Brujas – Playa Baracoa (Havana)
• Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Santiago de Cuba – Playa Baracoa (Havana)

• Holguin – Playa Baracoa (Havana) – Baracoa – Holguin – Playa Baracoa (Havana)

• Varadero – Cayo Largo del Sur – Varadero

By bike

Calm roads and beautiful scenery make Cuba an ideal country for biking. You will have to bring your own bike as bikes suitable for trekking are not readily available in Cuba. Do not under any circumstances rent a bike (i.e. el Orbe in Havana) in Cuba as you will get a junker or something that will leave your backside raw.

Roads in most places in Cuba are reasonable, but it may still be a good idea to bring a mountain bike. Mountain bikes are stronger and allow for better driving off-road. Make sure to bring all spare parts you might need along the way, since they will not be available in Cuba. As casas particulares are available even in relatively small towns it is easy to plan an itinerary. Food for on the road can often be obtained locally for cheap Cuban Pesos, but make sure if you travel through more remote areas to carry enough food (and water!). Obtaining bottled water outside the major cities can be a definite problem.

Bikers are often met with enthusiasm and interest; when taking a break you will often be approached by curious locals. It is possible to take bikes on a tour bus, like “Viazul”, to cover larger distances. You have to arrange a personal agreement with the driver however, who will expect a little bonus in return. It is also possible to take bikes on trains and even to hitch with bikes (wave some convertible pesos to approaching drivers to catch their attention).

By boat

When To Go

The best times to go are between December and April, to avoid the horrendous storms and hurricanes before December and the sticky heat of the Cuban summer which can be unbearable for some. This is also the high season so expect a price increase during this period.

Talk

The official language of Cuba is Spanish, quite similar to the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rican Spanish, although the version here is quite different from that spoken in Spain (although quite similar to the one in Canary Islands because many Cubans are descendants of Canarians), Mexico and South America. Cubans tend to swallow the last syllable in a word and generally swallow the ‘s’ sound.

Basic to fair English is spoken in some tourist locations and language should not be a deterrent to visiting the country for non-Spanish speaking tourists capable of speaking English, though basic Spanish would prove useful, especially in more informal settings. Cubans enjoy talking to tourists, especially if you are staying with them in the “Casas particulares” and some knowledge of Spanish will help you understand regular Cubans’ experiences.

Instead of the Spanish “¿Qué tal?” for “How are you?”, Cubans will say “¿Qué vola?” (similar to “What’s up?”, generally quite informal) or “¿Cómo andas?” (literally means, “How do you walk?”). Young Cubans amongst themselves will use the word “asere” which means “buddy” but is generally used between men and is not recommended for use by women.

See

Do

View over the rooftops of Trinidad_(Cuba), Cuba

Agriculture and Propaganda; common sights on the road in Cuba

Classic car maintenance on the streets of Havana

• Walk along Havana’s Malécon during the early evening and take in some of Havana’s culture. Be cautious about prostitutes, as mentioned above; they are heavy in this area, especially in sections where rich white male tourists are known to walk.
• Walk around in Havana Vieja, especially in the early mornings when the city wakes up. You can also take what is probably the best (and most extensive) walking tour on the island with “Havana Frans”, a Dutch jazz photographer who lives in Havana.
• If you have the money (usually about $60 USD or the euro equivalent), go to the Tropicana, which is an ex-Mafia hangout owned and operated by the state. The Tropicana is located, as it has always been, deep within a strategically tree-heavy area with a narrow road within the city, back behind the trees, and since its admission price is far too expensive for any average Cuban to afford, the people who go there are almost all international tourists. The club still has old-style traditions such as table service, lavish costumes, dazzling lights, a coat check area, etc. Real (but quite small) cigars are also available and can be smoked inside the venue, including near the stage. The Tropicana is so well-kept that it is almost a time warp (with the exception of the modern stage-equipment and the lack of a dress code) and, so long as you can forgive yourself the fact that most Cubans cannot afford what you are doing, and that the people who work there could not be there if they were not employed there, your night is sure to be extremely enjoyable.
• Go see a neighborhood performance of Afro-Cuban dance, which exists in almost every neighborhood.
• Go see local music, which exists in almost every neighborhood.
• Go to the clubs, all of which heavily play things like Cuban reggae and Cuban rap, as well as more traditional-sounding Cuban music with modern lyrics.
• Go to the beaches — but be careful, as in Jamaica, of being solicited by prostitutes and con people, both male and female.
• Don’t stay at a resort, unless you don’t want to experience the local culture. You will probably be bored and things around you will feel fake, gaudy and overdone — because they are.
• Go out in the countryside and talk to farmers. Check out the area markets. There are two types of market — state-run markets, which sell food very cheaply and for which Cubans keep ration books (and that you probably can’t shop at because you won’t have a ration book of your own), and for-profit markets where farmers sell their produce directly, which of course, is quite a bit more expensive.
• Expect to hear a lot of Carlos Santana blaring out of windows at odd times of the day.
• Drink lots of fresh fruit juice, which basically flows like water in Cuba due to the abundance of fresh fruit.
• Colon Cemetery, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vedado, [6]. Very interesting cemetery with many Cuban personalities 5.  edit
• UnderwaterCuba (Tours in Cuba), http://www.underwatercuba.club (Varadero), [7]. Tours in Cuba, Scuba Diving in Havana, Snorkeling in Varadero 40.  edit

Buy

Money

For information specific to U.S. citizens see Americans in Cuba

There are two currencies circulating in Cuba, Cuban Pesos (CUP) and Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC). Prior to November 2004 US dollars were in wide circulation on par with the CUC, but the government discontinued that and they are no longer used.

CUC (pronounced kook) is the currency most tourists will use in Cuba. It is how you will pay for hotels, official taxis, entry into museums, meals at restaurants, cigars, rum, etc. Since March 2011, the CUC has been set at par to the USD for exchange calculation (with commission and, in the case of actual USD a penalty – see below). Conversion into CUC can be done at exchange houses (casa de cambio, or cadeca). These are located in many hotels and in other places throughout the cities. CUC are valued at 25 times the value of CUP. Tourists are permitted to import or export a maxiumum of CUP 100 or CUC 200 at any one time. Locals pronounce the currency CUC/CUCs as “kook” or “kooks”

CUP are also known as local pesos and are referred to in Spanish as “Moneda Nacional” (National currency). As of Mar 2018, 1 CUC buys 25 CUP and 25 CUP buys 1 CUC. There is a limited range of goods that can be bought for local pesos, and these are transactions carried out in agricultural markets or from street vendors. Fruits, vegetables, fresh juices and snacks from street vendors are among the things CUP can buy. CUP’s also buys the local cigars ‘tabacos’ or ‘Nacionales’ in local shops. These taste fair, and you get one for 1 CUP, far cheaper than what you have to pay for the exportation brands. Try them, they are OK. If you plan on staying in Havana there are plenty of locations that offer goods in CUP and they are worth checking out. There are even sit down restaurants with food priced in CUP. The food is cheaper and you will be eating with actual Cubans. However the quality of cuisine can be very hit or miss.

See legal banknotes on website of the Central Bank of Cuba.

Because the products that can be purchased with CUP are limited, it is a good idea to change only about CUC 5-10 into CUP at a time.

If you are on a budget, finding food vendors in CUP is the best way to go. These will not be aimed at tourists and therefore much cheaper. A street vendor selling donuts for 5 CUP might bump up the price to 1 CUC (roughly five times more) though, so make sure you always have some CUPs on you.

Cuban government prepares to end dual currency system in 2018 and have now printed 200 CUP, 500 CUP and 1000 CUP banknotes.

Exchanging currency

Changing Cuban currency can only be done in Cuba. Cambio shop, banks, and hotels offer currency conversion.

The USD is no longer a proxy currency in Cuba, and now incurs a 10% exchange penalty that other foreign currencies are exempt from. Therefore, if you are holding USD, it may be cheaper to convert to another currency (CAD/EUR/GBP/CHF), so long as you don’t lose more than 10% in the conversion; The Swiss franc is often the best option, trading virtually at par with both the USD and CUC. Ironically, if converting from CUC to other currencies, USD is one of the few currencies that are available to convert to. There is no penalty when converting to USD. Note that as of July 2016, the only available currencies to convert from CUC at the airport were USD and the Euro. The smallest sized denominations available were $5 USD and 5 Euros.

For the overwhelming majority of travelers, it is completely unnecessary to exchange your money (losing) twice. Check to see if your home currency is accepted at the Banco Metropolitano [12]. Over 75% of Cuba’s visitors hold Canadian Dollars, Sterling or Euros which are perfectly acceptable. Mexican Pesos, Swiss Francs, Japanese Yen, Australian Dollars and at least four other currencies are also reportedly converted at major banks in Cuba. If you must change a large sum of home currency for another, make sure to change directly into CUCs, and research exchange rates in advance. For currencies that aren’t accepted in Cuba, converting to Euros in your home country will probably be the easiest & cheapest option.

Banco Central de Cuba publishes official exchange rates [13] and the official buy/sell rates [14] on its website. If you must buy Canadian Dollars or Euros first, compare retail rates from different forex vendors: the interbank rates cited by online calculators will underestimate your true exchange costs by 5-10%.

Most travel transactions and expenses are in ‘pesos convertibles’ or ‘chavitos’ (CUC$). The best rates for CUC$ are at the banks or CADECA kiosks, not resorts. There’s little difference between the rates offered at Cuban airport kiosks or banks. Consider changing only what you need, because re-conversion will add another exchange cost. Also, be advised that travelers changing money on the street have been defrauded, with fake or local currency. Caveat emptor!

Changing a very small sum (USD$ 5.) into ‘moneda nacional’ (CUP) is useful only for theaters, cinemas, local buses, etc. Most tourists will not ever use the ‘moneda nacional’ on holiday. Travelers or Backpackers with a low budget can save a lot of money in food expenses if they are willing to compromise on food quality. This is particularly feasible in Havana where there is more street food.

Traveler’s Cheques

Traveler’s checks drawn on American banks are not technically valid in Cuba, though many have had success cashing U.S. traveler’s checks at major tourist hotels. American Express checks are difficult to cash due to the likelihood that they were purchased with U.S. dollars. For example, Swiss traveler’s checks will be accepted, as long as they are in Swiss francs, even if the checks are made “in licence” of an American bank, as long as the real producer of them is non-American. Visa traveler’s cheques are accepted, though the same caveats about being drawn on an American bank apply. It’s better to bring cash to Cuba; resorts accept Euros, Canadian dollars, British pounds, Swiss francs and Hong Kong Dollar currencies without any fees. If backpacking or leaving the resort areas, exchange your currency to CUCs, as foreign currency is not accepted by many locals. For U.S. dollars, they will charge a penalty of 10%, so it’s better to change to Euros, Canadian dollars or Swiss francs before travelling there.

ATMs and Credit cards

In December 2014, the U.S. and Cuba re-established diplomatic relations. As a result, U.S. credit and debit cards will now be accepted on Cuban ground.UPDATE: As of December 2016, U.S. credit and debit cards were not being accepted. With all of this being said, travelers should carefully review the information below.

ATMs are relatively rare in Cuba, with most being in Havana. Most are linked with either to the Visa/Plus interbank systems. Unlike some national systems, only primary accounts (typically checking) are recognized. Most ATMs will only give a maximum of 40 bills in one transaction, so if they only hold CUC 3 notes, that is a maximum of CUC 120. Even if you find an ATM and meet the above criteria it still may not have sufficient cash for a large withdrawal – if refused, try again and ask for a smaller amount or ask the bank clerks for a cash advance, they can process cash advances.

Visa & Mastercard credit cards (of non-US origin) can usually be used, including for cash advances, but places that accept Visa as payment are extremely limited. Credit cards are charged in US dollars plus a 3% commission. The best places to attempt to use a credit/debit card for a cash withdrawal are at the state run Cadecas / Cambios – rather than banks used by Cubans, using the ‘red’ (company name) ATMs. Canadian debit cards are generally not accepted, although this does vary from card to card.

As a rule of thumb: if your debit card has a Visa logo it should work in an ATM, if it has a Visa or Mastercard logo it should work over the counter in a bank. If you were able to make a purchase via internet it may work. If it is a USA bank card it won’t work.

Many banks will tell you that your debit card will be accepted in Cuba when in fact it will not. Do not rely on ATMs for cash as you may be used to in other countries. Top Tip: Have enough currency or travellers cheques when you enter the country to get by, if necessary. There is a high chance you will not be able to withdraw any cash other than with a credit card,for which you will pay the conversion to “US dollar rate” and then conversion of those US dollars to your local currency at the rate charged by your card (which is usually about 2% more than the posted bank rate). To withdraw cash you will need to present your passport to an employee, and you will be asked where you are staying. The Cadecas are open longer hours than the banks, but the queues are usually much shorter in the banks.

Other than for use at ATMs and banks, there are generally no facilities for making payments with plastic in hotels, shops and restaurants, necessitating the use of cash.

Banks

Banks often close at 3 p.m., and earlier on the last day of the month. Cadecas (exchange bureaus) may be open longer, especially in hotels. When going to a bank allow enough time as service is usually slow and many people may already be waiting. Foreigners may get preferred treatment in exchange for a small tip.

You must bring your passport in case you want to exchange traveler’s checks or make a credit card advance, although cash can be changed without a passport. Exchange rates do vary from place to place, and some hotels do give significantly worse exchange rates than the banks.

As of March 2018 when visiting Banco de Crédito y Comercio on the corner of Amargura and Mercaderes in Old Havana you will be asked for passport and address. You will receive a receipt with all the denominations (in CUC) you will receive for your currency. From there you can exchange again your CUC to local CUP currency.

Merchandise

As in any developing country, most of the merchandise available is designed for tourists to take back home. The biggest Cuban exports for tourists are rum, cigars, and coffee, all of which are available at government-owned stores (including the duty free store at the airport) or on the streets. For genuine merchandise, you should pay the official price at the legal stores.

Cubans also do well in creating music such as salsa, son, and Afro-Cubano. You can purchase CDs or tapes anywhere, but paying the average cost of 20 CUC assures you of quality.

If you are planning to take big quantities (several boxes or more) of cigars with you, be sure you have purchased them officially from an approved shop that gives you proper purchase documentation. Foreign nationals are allowed to export up to 50 cigars (generally 25 to a box) without special permits or receipts, but the export of more requires official receipts. If you buy cigars cheap on streets and you don’t have official purchase invoice then your cigars may/will be confiscated. Also, be advised that any purchase of Cuban cigars outside government-approved stores (even in resorts) has the potential to be fake, and that the “cigar factory worker who steals from the factory” does not exist in any appreciable quantities. If you find a “deal” from a street vendor, it’s incredibly likely you are getting fakes, some of which may not even be made of tobacco. Always ensure, no matter where you buy, that the Cuban government origin warranty stamp is properly affixed to the cigar box. Americans are no longer allowed to bring Cuban cigars back into the U.S., regardless of their value, if they have an OFAC license, or even if they were given as a gift. It is also illegal for Americans to smoke or buy Cuban cigars anywhere in the world.

Officially you’ll need permission to export paintings that are larger than 70cm/side. When you buy artwork from approved shop then they’ll give you also the required document, that consists of one paper and one stamp that will be glued on back of your painting. Serial numbers on the stamp and paper must match. Cost of the document is about CUC 2-3. In reality, it is possible that no one will be interested in your paintings.

Medical Tourism

Cuba has long been a popular Medical Tourism destination for patients worldwide that seek high quality medical care at low costs. According to the Association of Caribbean States, nearly 20,000 international patients visited Cuba in 2006 for medical care. Cuba is especially attractive to many Latin American and North American patients given its easy proximity and relaxing environment.

A wide range of medical treatments are provided including joint replacement, cancer treatment, eye surgery, cosmetic surgery and addictions rehabilitation. Costs are about 60 to 80 percent less than U.S. costs.

Eat

As all restaurants are owned by the government and run by employees, the food in Cuba is notoriously bland. If you are expecting the fiery pepperpot spiciness found on some of the other Caribbean islands, consider that the national dish in Cuba is rice and beans (moros y cristianos). A popular saying goes that the best Cuban food can be found in the United States. Within Cuba, the best food will generally be found in your casa particular or in paladares (locally owned restaurants in private homes).

Black beans are a main staple in Cuban households. Cubans eat mainly pork and chicken for meat. Beef and lobster are controlled by the state, and therefore illegal to sell outside of state owned hotels and restaurants, however special lobster lunch/supper offers are plentiful for tourists. You may see turtle on menus in Paladares, but be aware that they are endangered and eating them is illegal.

Paladares are plentiful, even in the smaller towns. Seating is often limited, so you may need to arrive when they open, usually around 5 or 6PM. If you are staying in a casa particular ask your host for recommendations, as the quality of the food can vary substantially between paladares. Only eat in ones that have a printed menu with prices, otherwise you are very likely to pay two to three times as much as you should. That said, several have taken to printing two different menus, one with local prices and one with foreigner prices. Eating in paladares is perfectly legal, but be aware that if you are taken there by a Cuban, you may be charged extra in order to cover commission of the person who brought you. A supper will cost around 7 to 10 CUC per person.

Eating in state owned hotels and restaurants is significantly more expensive and compares with prices in many first world countries. An average supper with soup, dessert and a glass or two of wine could easily set you back 20 to 30 CUC per person. Note that in these establishments, the vast majority of the employees’ income would come from tips (their monthly salary often being less than the cost of one meal), making it a friendly and welcome gesture to tip liberally for good service.

In bigger towns you will also find some state-run restaurants which cater mainly to Cubans and accept local currency. Prices are extremely low, but the quality of food, service and ambiance is typically shocking. You may be able to secure better food by offering to pay in CUCs. Still, this may be an option if you are on a really low budget or look for an ‘authentic’ Cuban experience. If you choose to tip, do so in CUCs as anything else would be an insult to staff.

It is difficult to find any restaurants serving breakfast in Cuba outside of resorts; most casas particulares will serve their guests a large breakfast for around 4 CUC per person if requested. However, make sure you get value for money – often you can buy for much less money (in national pesos) the same fruit, coffee bread/omelette etc out in the street that your casa particular owner will want to charge you 4 times more for just to present it to you in a more comfortable fashion.

Sometimes if you ask nicely, your casa particular owner may let you use their kitchen to prepare your own food – in fact, they are usually quite accommodating if for instance you have special dietary requirements, or young children etc.

A tasty serving of rice, vegetables, plantains, and pork or beef (called a cajita [“little box” in English]) is an attractive and affordable option, and are generally sold for around US$1 out of people’s homes.

You can also find small street vendors selling a variety of foods, typically sandwiches and pizzas for between 2 and 12 CUP. The quality varies from vendor to vendor so when you find a good one take note. Many of these stores are run from people’s living rooms, and buying from them is a good way to help provide some extra income to a Cuban family. While these meals are satisfying and cheap, be warned that long lines are common and the vendors are rarely in any rush to see everyone fed quickly.

Havana Chinatown Food in Cuba is quite monotonous and – let’s be honest – pretty bad (mainly rice, beans, chicken, sandwiches and pizza, all prepared without much regard to taste or presentation), but check out the small Havana Chinatown a few blocks west of the Capitolio if you are looking for something different. There are a few Chinese themed restaurants there, where the food is neither spectacular nor really authentic, but decent enough if you can’t face another serving of rice and beans. Street food can also be a notch better here, try the area around the intersection of Avenida de Italia and Avenue Zanja.

Drink

The purchasing age of alcoholic beverages is 18.

Cuban national cocktails include the Cuba Libre (rum and cola) and the Mojito (rum, lime, sugar, mint leaves, club soda and ice).

If you request a rum in a small country restaurant do not be surprised if it is only available by the bottle. Havana Club is the national brand and the most popular. Expect to pay $4 for three year old white rum or $8 for seven year old dark rum.

Cristal is a light beer and is available in “dollar” stores where Cubans with CUCs and visitors may shop. Cubans prefer the Bucanero Fuerte, which at 5.5% alcohol is a strong (hence the “fuerte”) darker beer. Both Cristal and Bucanero are brewed by a joint venture with Labatts of Canada, whose beer is the only Cuban beer sold in CUC. A stronger version, Bucanero Max is also available – primarily available in Havana.

There are also smaller brews, not available everywhere, such as Hatuey and Corona del Mar. These are sold in CUP.

Note that – similar to restaurants – there are two types of establishments you can go to to drink in Cuba: Western-style CUC bars with near-Western prices, a good selection of quality drinks (and sometimes food), nice decorations, semi-motivated staff and often live music, typically found around tourist hot-spots such as Old Havana and tourist hotels. Here you will mostly meet other tourists, expats and a few Cubans with access to hard currency, but don’t expect a ‘local’ experience.

The alternative is to seek out local neighborhood bars where you can choose from a quality, but limited, selection of drinks (mainly locally produced rum by the bottle, beer and soft drinks, very rarely will you be able to get cocktails such as mojitos), cigars of dubious and cigarettes of only slightly better quality, and sometimes snacks. Local bars accept CUPs and are dirt-cheap, although bar keepers will often ask you for CUCs instead – it’s up to you to negotiate an acceptable price, but keep in mind that local bar staff are state employees and (literally) paid a pittance. These bars are also a good way to meet locals who may even open up a bit and talk about their lives after a couple of drinks.

Local bars are not that hard to find despite typically having no prominent signs displayed outside. Just ask or walk around a local neighborhood and look out for a bare-walled, neon-lit room without any decorations or furniture, save for a bar and a few rickety chairs and tables, sullen staff and depressed/bored/drunk-looking customers, almost always men. Contrary to Cuba’s reputation as a music and fun loving nation, local bars are not boisterous affairs – they are quiet, almost subdued, music is rarely played (if at all, it will come from a radio but never be live), and have the charm of third-world railway station waiting rooms.

Nonetheless, they make for a fascinating experience (especially if you make the effort to speak to some locals – offering to buy a drink will get a conversation going, no surprise there), and they provide a good insight into what life must be like for ordinary Cubans without access to hard currency. As a foreign visitor, you will be generally welcomed. Discussing politics over a drink is a tricky, and typically lose-lose proposition: speak negatively about the Cuban political system and you may put your Cuban drinking companions into a very difficult position as they may very well be informed on for hanging out with subversive foreigners.

Sleep

If you want to experience something of the real life of Cubans, the best places to stay are casas particulares (private houses licensed to offer lodging services to foreigners). They are cheaper than hotels and the food (breakfast CUC 3-5, dinner CUC 7-15) is almost always better than you would get in a hotel. Casas particulares are plentiful even in small towns; they are somewhat more expensive in Havana than elsewhere. Note that any service offered by a casa particular other than accommodation, such as driving you to the bus station, will be added to your bill, regardless of whether this is stated up front. Items such as bottled water supplied with your meal will also have a charge. Always make sure that you talk to the owner about what things will cost when you arrive to avoid unpleasant surprises later. These houses are under a lot of restrictions by the government, so make sure that you are staying at a legal “casa”. A legal house will have a sticker on the front door (often a blue sign on a white background), you will notice these as you walk past houses. Upon arrival, the houseowner will need to take down your passport details and how long you will be staying for. Some Cubans do offer illegal accommodation and although they are cheaper, the quality of the food and service is generally lower. If found, the Cubans will risk a large fine and it is best to avoid illegal casas completely. If travelling around the island, it is recommended to ask the casa owners if they have friends or family in the city you are going to. There is a network of casas and the family will gladly organise for you to be met by their friends off the bus at your next destination. If you prefer having an apartment all for yourself, have a look online: Casas de Cuba provides casas particulares booking service worldwide.

If travelling by bus, you will be accosted by jineteros (hustlers) trying to lead you to a casa, where they will get a commission and you will be charged the extra. You may wish to arrange your accommodation in advance, either by asking your host to recommend someone or by using a casa particular association (note, however, that the party making the introduction will almost always receive a commission, which you end up paying as it will be included in the accommodation price). Some will let you book accommodation over the internet before your trip, and will go out of their way to arrange accommodation for you while you are there. But to avoid commissions and annoyances, the best thing to do is just walk around by yourself and knock on doors with the distinctive “arrendedor divisa” sign, meaning it is a legal casa particular. They are plentiful, and you’ll find one that you like for the price you want to pay (generally 15-20 CUC per room is standard around the island).

Most small cities and larger towns have at least one state-run hotel, which is often in a restored colonial building. The prices range from around CUC 25 to CUC 100, depending on what you are getting. Resorts and high-end Havana hotels can be significantly more expensive.

Cubans hosting foreigners for free is technically illegal and risk a large fine if caught. Some will bend the rules, but be cautious if you choose to take up the offer (e.g. don’t walk out the front door if you see a police car nearby, especially if you look obviously foreign).

Learn

The University of Havana [15] offers both long and short-term Spanish courses. If you do chose to study at the university, try and see if you can obtain a student “carné” = student card. (On courses longer than 6 months you can get Cuban ID card) which will enable you to benefit from the same advantages as Cuban students (museums at a 25th of the price, entrance to nightclubs full of mostly Cubans). If you want to take private classes or study Spanish in smaller groups, Babylon Idiomas [16] is offering a wide range of intensive courses for all levels that you can start on any Monday of the year. You can study Spanish in Havana, Trinidad or Santiago de Cuba.

Cuban museums are plentiful, frequently open, and usually charge only one or two CUC for admission. You may get a guided tour from one of the staff members; even if you do not speak Spanish, this can be useful. They will generally make you check your bags, and charge a small fee for the privilege of taking pictures inside.

Work

The average official salary for Cubans is about US$15 per month. Non-Cubans can only obtain a business/work visa or a work permit through a Cuban business or a foreign business registered in Cuba. Business visas are generally for up to three months. Work permits are renewable annually.

Stay safe

Cuba is generally a very safe country; strict and prominent policing, combined with neighborhood-watch-style programs (known as the Committee for the Defense of the Revolution, or C.D.R.) are officially there to keep the streets safe from violent crime. There is almost no gun crime, violent robbery, organized gang culture, teenage delinquency, drugs or dangerous no-go zones. Local criminals try to avoid targeting foreigners at all costs because they would pay a very steep price if caught but keep in mind that all cats are black in the dark and you may become a victim even if by accident. However, a certain degree of common-sense and caution is advisable, especially in major cities.

The legal system in Cuba is very different from most other countries and it is best to avoid getting caught violating any law. Bars, restaurants, and hotels will not hesitate to call the police if there is any trouble and it is best to diffuse the situation.

While one of the best things in Cuba is to meet the local people, there is a subtle line that divides the touristic world from the real world of every day Cubans. Political topics should be handled with respect and discretion. You can find Cuban people (mainly older) with zero tolerance for any negative comments about the revolution or Fidel Castro. Avoid references to North Korea, the Soviet Union, or any country that was linked to communism as this is likely to stir controversy. Average Cubans will become very uncomfortable if a conversation turns to politics or can be perceived to be derogatory to the country or the political system. The words “democracy” or “human rights” are particularly thorny and one should not question whether Cuba is a democracy or not. If a foreigner makes a negative comment about anything remotely related to the government, locals are expected to “confront” this person and they would not hesitate to do so. Intellectuals, higher education students, or people with very little education can become equally uncomfortable with these topics and can react the same way. Have common sense: How many times has complete strange approached you in the street with similar questions? Warning: Any attempt to contact local opposition leaders or provide any support to them will be considered a felony and can be punished with deportation from the country or even jail.

Drug laws can be harsh and severe. The same may be said about the laws concerning prostitution. The importation, possession or production of pornography is strictly prohibited. It is not uncommon to see a dog jogging on the luggage carousel sniffing arriving luggage, especially when arriving from countries prone to drug-trafficking, so be sure to lock and/or wrap your luggage to avoid any problems in this regard. Additionally, it is against the law to take pictures of airports, government buildings, politicians, the military, and police officers.

Women should feel very safe as Cuba is a country with a high degree of feminine integration into the society and there is little gender discrimination or problems about it. It is almost customary for a man to comment on the beauty of any woman and this should not be taken negatively. These messages do not have a sexual intention or sexual harassment, and should be answered with a polite “gracias”. Elders may even use expressions that rhyme in Spanish and are called “piropos” and can range from very poetic to very vulgar. The recipient of these calls is not supposed to return the call or pay any attention to the episode or it can be interpreted as an interest and can lead to confusions. Tourist women can walk alone at night or at any time of the day on any area that other tourists are present without any fear.

Don’t drink tap water. Water in Cuba is generally safe; however, it is highly chlorinated to kill all tropical germs. People not accustomed to such chlorine concentration may experience vomiting, diarrhea or stomach spasms.

Scams

Note that many locals are simply friendly and their only motive is a conversation. However, a few well established scams exist:

• Insurance price for the rental cars became a subject of scams. It is quite expensive as you may get to pay twice the real cost. You should keep in mind that there is one type of insurance policy covering everything (except for radio and tires) and the price varies only depending on the car type. The guy at the car rental office might start to explain the difference between 2-3 types of policies for the same car type, coming at different costs. Undoubtedly, only the more expensive one has full coverage (except for the radio and tires theft). This is the scam! If you choose the more expensive option, you are told that it is not possible to pay the full amount with credit card. Nevertheless it is possible to pay a part of it with credit card (exactly the cost of the less expensive one)and pay cash for the difference. You will not get any receipt, nor does this sum appears on the rental contract. This is the exact amount the scammer gets from you.

• When booking a car, beware of Internet scams. There are many reports of people who booked and prepaid through an internet agency arriving to find no car exists. Best book directly with an actual car rental company (Via, CubaCar or Rex).

Comparison between fake and real cigars.

• Cigars are the most popular merchandise for the tourists to Cuba, however most of the cigars that tourists bought in Cuba during Havana one-day tour or even in Varadero airport tax-free store are fake. Make sure you buy cigars in official shops, do not trust the tobacco factory where the tourism guide takes you to.

• In some spots such as casa de gobierno y palacio municipal, be cautious to the staffs who want to take photos for you or offer you a visit to some “hidden” area. They will ask you more than CUC1 as tips after they have “served” you.

• Real-looking discount cigars of dubious authenticity being offered by street touts. Quite often though these are indeed genuine articles which have been stolen or collected over a long period of time by cigar workers and are sold at substantial discount on legal and taxed cigars. If you are unable to distinguish genuine cigars then you should only buy from the official cigar dealers. The best people to buy untaxed (illegal but genuine) cigars from tend to be hotel doormen who will not be offended if asked “if they know where you can get cheap cigars” and may lead you to a room in the hotel used for this purpose. If buying untaxed cigars you should not pay more than say CUC 50 for a box of say 25 Espléndidos (around ten times cheaper than taxed cigars a rule of thumb). Be careful that you see the box you are buying open to prove there are in fact cigars in it. Also often stickers are included to allow you to seal the box as if it had been taxed. There is a risk that customs will confiscate these on exit, but for less than 50 cigars it is very unlikely. If carrying more then they should be split between the members of your party. Since the activity of selling untaxed cigars stolen or collection from the factory is illegal and the locals are often very short of money outside the main tourist season it is possible to haggle the prices very low, but since a typical salary for a hotel worker may be the equivalent of USD 20 per month it may seem unfair.

• “Friendly” locals inviting tourists to bars for a drink (normally a mojito) or to a restaurant; the tourist will be charged two to three times the normal price, and the spoils split between the establishment and the “friend”. In Central Havana area, a running trick is a young local man or couple, in pretext of practicing English, to invite tourists to attend a performance by “Buena Vista Social Club” (no, most of the members of BVSC have passed away and the group hasn’t performed in Havana for many years) while suggesting to go to a nearby bar for a drink while waiting for the show to start.

• Short-changing in bars or taxis or giving national pesos (CUP) in change for convertible pesos (CUC). Or, offering to swap 3 CUC or more for a “special edition” 3 peso coin with a picture of Che Guevara (the swap is of a CUC for CUP which is worth about 20 times less). Unfortunately unlike bills, convertible coins are unmarked as such. Get familiarized with the coins as soon as you get them from the bank or CADECA – the ones with a big star or Che Guevara on one side are all national pesos. The convertible bills have images of monuments on them while the pesos have images of people on them. Further the convertible bills have a water mark of a man (Jose Martin) on them while the pesos have a watermark of a woman (Fidel Castro’s personal secretary who was beloved as the mother of all Cuban children because she provided help to those in need) on them.

• Water is often sold around tourist areas. Sometimes these bottles have been filled with local tap water and re-sealed (which can be poisonous). You can usually see this tampering on the bottle, but not always, in any case tap water will taste markedly different to bottled water and should be avoided in all cases. If in doubt you should discard the water. In fact, real bottled water (same goes for canned soft drinks) is a luxury even to locals and costs about the same either in national pesos (around 10 CUP) or convertibles (around 0.45 CUC) in stores, local or tourist ones alike – if you get one too cheaply, it’s probably too good to be true.

• Locals offer to swap money at a ‘local bank’ where the natives can get the best rates and ask you to remain outside whilst they do the deal as your presence would drive the rate up. If you give them your money you will never see them again.

• Credit cards scams are common and accordingly money should only be withdrawn in reputable hotels or banks. Ideally carry cash with you; CAD, EUR, and GBP are almost universally accepted (in order of popularity) despite being illegal to spend.

• In Havana it is important to always be careful when using money. When taking a taxi, ask someone familiar with the system what the approximate fare should be, as many drivers will try to set an artificially high fare before departing. If in doubt, insist that they use the meter. You can almost be sure that any predetermined fare from the airport is at least 5-10 CUC higher than it should be – insist on the meter.

• Shop assistants have been known not to give change and go on serving the next customer, assuming the tourist will not be able to speak enough Spanish to question the matter. In addition, some ambiguity exists between whether or not published prices are in CUC or CUP, and many vendors will take CUC when CUP is due and pocket the difference without telling you of your mistake. If in doubt, observe what the other customers are doing before making your purchase.

• Credit card scams are common. Do not let your credit card out of your hands, and watch as the salesperson passes the card in the machine. If anything seems strange, DO NOT SIGN! Merchants in small shops may take your card to an adjacent bank counter and use it to take out a cash advance. Look closely at your receipts, if the receipt indicates ‘Venta’ and a dollar or CUC amount, this means that is has been passed as a cash advance (which will be kept by the dishonest employees). Credit card facilities are however generally so limited to non-existent in shops that it is customary and more practical to just pay with cash.

• Often, real products such as rum and cigars may be switched by employees for fake ones which are under the counter or in a storeroom.

• Jineteros/jineteras are a problem in larger cities, and will try to sell tourists anything, including restaurants, cigars, sex and drugs. Note that this type of solicitation is illegal in Cuba and most will leave you alone if you ignore them or politely say no for fear of police attention.

• Bicycle tour drivers will often quote you a price of 5-8 CUC for a 1 hour tour of nearly all of the tourist sights. This is impossible to do by cycle in 1 hour and will take 2-3, which you will then be asked to pay for and be given an excuse as to the ‘confusion’. The tours are still a great way to see the city, just confirm and negotiate all the details before you accept.

• Look before you buy has become a relatively common trick for tourists in Havana, especially with cigars. Very friendly men will quote you a very good price on some cigars, and you can go with them just to look before you decide if you want them. Then once you are at their house or office or shop, they will present what are inevitably fake cigars and passively-aggressively force you to buy them.

• The artisans’ cooperative shop. A friendly local starts a conversation (often in fluent English) with the unsuspecting tourists. S/he asks what you’ve been visiting in Cuba so far and if what souvenirs you’re taking home. Then s/he brings up this great shop nearby, a cooperative of poor Cuban artisans or tobacco producers, which is just about to close for a few days (usually some holiday you haven’t heard of) and if you hurry you can still catch it for half an hour to buy what you need. Once there, you will be sold the lowest quality stuff at the highest prices; you will be told it’s great quality, hand-made and you’re helping to feed their children.

Stay healthy

The famous Cuban Health care system is free for Cubans but not for foreigners, plan ahead and buy medical insurance as is required for travel to Cuba. There are special clinics and hospitals for tourists and the prices are not exactly cheap. You cannot walk into the ER at a random hospital unless you have a real emergency. If an emergency were to happen you will receive any attention needed; you will be taken to the nearest hospital and the local police will be called quickly to assist while you should expect to be the center of attention from medical personnel and other patients.

Cuba is considered very healthy except for the water; even many Cubans boil or filter their water. It is advisable to avoid any of the homemade juices served at the little restaurants frequented by locals. That said, some travelers drink untreated water without ill effect. The best solution is bottled water and lots of it, especially for visitors who are not used to the 30+°C/85+°F temperatures. Bottled water (“agua de botella”) is easily found and costs between .65 and 2 CUC for a 1.5L bottle, depending on the shop. It should be noted that the mineral count (total dissolved solids) of bottled water is quite high compared to elsewhere in the world, so if you are planning to visit Cuba for an extended period of time (e.g. as a student or on work permit), it might be a useful idea to bring a small jug/sports bottle water filter with a few cartridges along to further purify the water.

Cuban milk is usually unpasteurized, and can make visitors sick. Additionally, tourists should be wary of vegetables washed in tap water. Despite the warnings, most Cuban food is safe to eat and you do not need to be paranoid.

The island is tropical and thus host to a number of diseases. Dengue fever, cholera and Chikungunya are not rare at all. Mosquito repellent is recommended. Some recommend an aggressive program of inoculations when planning a trip to Cuba, but most travelers come with little or none. Hepatitis B and tetanus shots are recommended by most travel clinics. Malaria and yellow fever have been eradicated completely so there is no need for prophylaxis or yellow fever vaccination.

HIV/AIDS infection is less than 0.1%, however, as always, you should exercise care and make sure you or your partner wears a condom should you become sexually active while in Cuba.

Cuba has one of the highest number of doctors available per capita in the world (around one doctor for every 170 people), making doctors readily accessible throughout most of the island. Your hotel reception should be able to point you to the closest doctor. So plentiful in fact are doctors in Cuba, that it is not uncommon to see doctors selling paintings, books or other artwork to tourists at the flea market to make money to supplement their meager salaries.

Finding medication however, is often difficult. It is highly recommended to stock up on over-the-counter medications before heading to Cuba, as pharmacies lack many medications that westerners might expect to find, such as aspirin, ibuprofen, and immodium. Do not attempt to import psychoactive drugs into Cuba. Havana also features a clinic (and emergency room) for foreigners, which offers extremely prompt service.

Toiletries such as shampoo, conditioner, razors, tampons and condoms are also hard to come across and expensive, so stock up before you leave.

Toilet paper has been a absent in most public toilets, at the Havana Uni and other places you may be visiting.

Police, Fire and Medical contact numbers

The emergency number in Cuba is: 106.

Respect

Cubans are generally friendly and helpful people. Keep in mind that they make about US$15 a month; if they can help you, they probably will, but they may expect you to return the favor. If you are invited into a Cuban’s home for supper, take the invitation. You will really be treated like a guest of honor. It is a great way to get a feel for the culture. Of course, ordinary Cubans are not permitted to host this type of event, but it goes on as a matter of course.

One way to help local Cubans is by staying in casas particulares and eating in paladares. While free enterprise is usually banned, several years ago the government began selling expensive licenses to individuals wishing to open up rooms for rent in their houses, or set up a few tables on their porch and cook out of their kitchens. Not only are the licenses very expensive but the fees must be paid monthly regardless of income, leaving those less fortunate the possibility of actually losing money. Not only is it more interesting to stay with locals and eat in their homes, you’re actually directly benefiting them in one of the few ways possible.

Do not push Cubans into a discussion of political issues, as this could have serious repercussions on you and the person to whom you are talking.

Traditionally Cuba is Catholic, but the government has often cracked down on demonstrations of faith. Recently, however, it is less frowned upon since Pope John Paul II’s visit, and there are more important issues to deal with. Other religions in Cuba are hybrid religions, mixing elements of Catholicism with others of traditional African religions. The most common one is called “Santería” and their priests can be recognised by the full white regalia with bead necklaces that they wear. Women going through the process to become priests are not allowed (amongst other things) to touch other people, so if your casa owner is distant and dressed all in white, do not be too surprised. There are many museums in Cuba (especially in the Southern cities like Santiago de Cuba) which depict the history and traditions of Santería.

Contact

PSTN or a landline, Mobile “Cubacel” is provide in Cuba by state company called ETECSA.

Internet access

In many cities the only way for tourists to access the internet is through the government’s communications centres and Wi-Fi hot spots [17] in parks. Look for buildings bearing the name “ETECSA”, which stands for Empresa de Telecomunicaciones de Cuba S.A. ETECSA also has internet stations in some of the larger government hotels and resorts. The connection speed is 1-2 MBps near the ETECSA office.

This is payable by purchasing a prepaid scratch card called NAUTA with a PIN code granting you access for one hour. The same card can be used throughout the country at any ETECSA terminal, allowing you to disconnect after your session and use the remaining time on the card further at the next hotel/city you go to. PRICES:

• One hour NAUTA card for 1 CUC
• Five hours NAUTA card cost 5CUC – Your best deal, go to your local ETECSA office and purchase this one.

You can only buy 3 cards per day, and the queues are long, as the same office will sell top-ups for mobiles, and other services. Bring your passport with you.

The Wi-Fi card is valid for 30 days after activation. The expiration date printed on it is irrelevant and ETECSA offices often sell cards with a print-on date in the past.

To connect visit 1.1.1.1 or if you directed to the user portal.

Having internet access at your house is illegal, though illegal connections (usually through a modem set up at a school or workplace) can be obtained for about 30 CUC per month. However legal connections are available for Cubans from ETECSA. Access is through wifi and connection gear cost around 200-300 CUC. (Bring your old PC and wifi stuff to Cuba, even used equipment is expensive for the people.) Citizens pay their connection through the same prepaid system as tourists. Campaign price is -50% from the 4.5 CUC per hour. This can be renewed online. (May 2015)

As of 2018 Wi-Fi hot-spots are present in parks and even 3-star hotels, and most B&Bs have it too. Major services such as Skype, Facebook or Instagram are not blocked. However the connection speed is generally very slow (around 3 mb/sec).

Residential customers can purchase Internet for home now called “Nauta Hogar” with ADSL2+ Modem Router TD-8840T [18]

Cuba is connected to Internet highway as of 2018 through 2 optical fibre links. [19].

Santiago de Cuba, Cuba | ALBA-1 | Ocho Rios, Jamaica [20].

Siboney, Cuba | ALBA-1 | Maiquetia, Venezuela [21].

Phone

The country code for Cuba is 0053 or +53.

Havana numbers start with 7xxxxxxx (+537xxxxxxx) Mobile numbers start with 5xxxxxxx (+535xxxxxxx)

The emergency number is 116. The information number is 113.

Mobile

GSM cell phones will work in Cuba (900 MHz) and as of 2018 3G (900MHz).

Cuba is one of the most expensive countries in which to communicate. Incoming phone calls to Cuba cost about €1 / minute on your own mobile , even through services like Skype. Outgoing calls from Cuba are similarly expensive, and can be as high as €5 per minute for making international when roaming with your cellphone from overseas.

Cellphones can be rented at several stores in Havana, including one in the airport. The rates are 9 CUC per day (6 CUC for the phone and 3 CUC for the SIM card), plus about 36 cents a minute for prepaid cards.

If you bring an unlocked GSM phone operating at 900 MHz (or quad-band world phone) you can buy a Pre-Paid SIM card for 40 CUC, plus your prepaid minutes. If you’re staying two weeks or more it makes sense to bring a cheap phone, buy a SIM card and prepaid minutes, then give the phone to a Cuban friend when you leave. Cellphones are among the most desired items for Cubans (bring a case for the phone too, Cubans are very fussy about keeping their phones scratch-free). You will have to go to a cellphone store with your friend and sign a paper to give the phone to your friend. Don’t give your friend an unlimited plan that charges to your credit card!

Check your price plan: Sent SMS to number 2266 with text “plans” Contact ETECSA: Through telephone consultation by the 52642266 or by the 118. Voicemail: (Calls to * 123 or * 80), 0.20 CUC / min, only the listener. To recharge your balance, dial * 666 (free of charge) and follow the instructions you will receive. To quickly recharge the balance dial * 662 * Cod. Access #

• 222 # Check status of your credit.
• 222 * 266 # Check status of your bonus from 1.11.2017
• 222 * 767 # SMS check the status of SMS plans.
• 222 * 869 # check the status of Voice plans.
• 222 * 328 # DAT Bolsa nauta has the option to make use of 5 MB for a cost of 1.50 CUC.

ETECSA often runs promotions offering top-ups their of pre-paid mobile phones from internet giving you extra credit of between 30 – 40 CUC to use in 7 to 14 days. Check their website often http://www.etecsa.cu/inicio/ some of the website offering to-up charge commission.

It is expected that owners of the pre-paid SIM card will able to access internet on their mobile some time in 2018.

Anyone with Cuban ID card can set up on their pre-paid mobile phone account “Movil Nauta” [22]that will allow them send/receive e-mail from their mobile phone using address *@nauta.cu, plus giving them access to Wi-Fi internet with just a username and password and top-up this account online. Request for service nauta cost 1.50 CUC as a one off set-up fee, and send and receive message from the mobile cost 1.00 CUC per Megabyte (MB) of data transferred.

Please not if you set up below setting on your phone, but will not have activated the Nauta account and try to connect to other e-mail providers this that will still be chargable and your credit will be deducted.

Apn : nauta User : leave blank Password : leave blank

Email account : [email protected] User : [email protected] Password : ******

IMAP4 : imap.nauta.cu, port: 143 POP3 : pop.nauta.cu, port: 110 Exit server : SMTP : smtp.nauta.cu, port : 25, authentication : Yes

Mail/Post

You can buy and send an Aerogram (a piece of stationery that you fold into an envelope and send like that with no extra stamps, used to be very popular worldwide decades ago) to anywhere in the world for as little as 0,60 peso (2007 price).

Please not that post stamps are sold in Cuba only in CUP, but as a tourist you may/will be asked for CUC.

Media

News

• Cuba Authority, [23], U.S President Barack Obama Visits Cuba first president in 88 years. News, travel tips and info to prepare. NON Cuban website.

• Granma has a daily [24] edition and an international [25] version.

• Bohemia Magazine has a daily [26] edition.

• Juventud Rebelde, [27].

• Cuba Vision, [28] is the national television station.

• Cuba Holiday News, [29], online news channel, with selected news for people interested on travelling to Cuba. NON Cuban website.

• Havana Times, [30], Photos, News Briefs and Features from Havana, Cuba. NON Cuban website.

• Cuba Headlines, [31], Cuba News Headlines. Cuban Daily News | Cuba News, Articles and Daily Information. NON Cuban website.

• Cuba Journal, [32], In-depth coverage of travel, business, art and news for the new Cuba. NON Cuban website.

Television

If you’re staying at a hotel or casa particular, it’s likely there will be a television, and watching Cuban television is a good place to observe Cuba’s unique mix of vibrant culture, sports and controversial politics.

The Cuban telenovelas are one of the state’s key instruments for addressing sexual taboos and educating young people about AIDS, for example. The locally produced cartoons are the most interesting and uniquely Cuban. They range from abstract and artsy to informative to entertaining.

The most famous of the genre is the children’s program Elpidio Valdés, which chronicles the adventures of a band of rebels in the 19th century revolt against the Spanish. The mix of cartoon slapstick humor and images of violent revolution (dashing revolutionaries stealing rifles, blowing up Spanish forts, and sticking pistols into the mouths of goofy Spanish generals) in a program geared at children is simultaneously delightful and disturbing.

There are classes under the heading “Universidad Para Todos” (University for Everybody) with the purpose to teach Cubans subjects like mathematics and grammar through the television. Also one of the channels is called the “Educational Channel” (Canal Educativo), although this uses “educational” in its widest sense, including foreign soap operas and pop concerts.

Cuba has adopted digital terrestrial system – Televisión digital terrestre (TDT) called DTMB (same as in China and HKG) and in 2018 being to turn off analogue TV in some regions.

Radio

• Radio Reloj, [33] broadcasts news 24 hours and states the time every minute on the minute — dos cuarenta y dos minutos…

• Radio Rebelde, [34], another news radio station.

Cuban radio stations from all the regions can bu tuned on internet from the Portal de la Radio Cubana en Internet webiste [35]

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